Friday: the now-familiar rendezvous with Dave at Newport train station, and home cooked curry bonanza chez Wood, and the final stretch of Dave driving to Newgale and the coast of far west Wales. Mike reprised his role as Jake's stand-in.

Saturday: Dave drove us over the Preseli Hills to Newport (Pembrokeshire), where we parked at The Parrog and, armed with coffee from Morawelon cafe-bar-restaurant (we resisted the cake temptation), we caught the Poppit Rocket coast bus to Poppit Sands. Under blue skies, we walked along back from Poppit Sands to Newport along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path / Llwybr Arfordir Sir Benfro. The tough stretch coincided with a particularly brisk onshore 'breeze' - but rather that than offshore, given the sheer drops on our right - and we strolled the final section, around Newport Bay, along the Nevern estuary and back through woodland to Newport, in beautiful evening light. After a refreshing pint, we dined sumptuously at the lovely Golden Lion pub - looking rather underdressed in the restaurant but without comment.

Sunday: A stroll on Newgale Beach, followed by Maurice's Sunday lunch feast. No more needs to be said!

More info:

• Poppit Sands, Cardiganshire
• Newport / Trefdraeth, Pembrokeshire
• Visit Pembrokeshire: Pembrokeshire Coast Path
• Pembrokeshire Coast National Park > Walking
• Pembrokeshire Coast Path National Trail

Catching the train out from Liverpool Street, we reached WONZ just before 10pm, and managed to nip into the Coop to stock up on food staples, and the essential copy of the Frinton and Walton Gazette. The store was closed for refurbishment last autumn. To be honest, I'd be hard pressed to tell you what the differences are between then and now. Settling into the caravan we didn't bother to switch the fridge on, but focused on hot water bottles and extra layers of duvet instead.

Naze Marine Caravan Park, panorama from the sea wall

Friday was surprisingly bright. Having walked along the sea wall into town, we checked for any other changes (none that we noticed. It's surprising how some of the 'vanity' shops seem to have survived to see a second season) and bought essential cake supplies at Lilley's Bakery. Back at the 'van, having spotted a few hardy individuals making the most of sheltered sundecks, I ventured outside with deckchair and current read, Hilary Mantel's Bring Up The Bodies. Very pleasant, so long as I was out of the wind. The evening saw us start Spiral season 4, with a spring greens' variation on Angela Hartnett's tagliatelle with pine nuts, capers and kale recipe ...

On Saturday morning we woke to snow flurries but once we'd surfaced the skies seemed clearer along the coast, and so we headed of along the prom towards Frinton, and .... continued on to Clacton! Inspired by the knowledge (gleaned from the Gazette) that it's 7 miles between the piers, and also because we've talked about going to Clacton for as long as I've been coming to this part of the world, and never been. A lovely walk, full of surprises including back to front beach huts overlooking Frinton Golf Course (one for sale at £32,000 - blimey), the imposing church at Great Holland which dominated the skyline under ominous black clouds, and Clacton itself. After a late but very tasty lunch at The Pier fish and chip restaurant, we caught the No 7 bus back to Walton. Saturday evening turned out pretty much identical to Friday night's, except dinner was quiche and greens.

Walton Mere, panorama from the sea wall

On Sunday we walked, via fields flooded by the high spring tide, over to Hipkins Beach to check out the beach hut and the Naze, but spent most of the day in the caravan reading and eating our chocolate Easter Egg from dad and Jean, until heading out for a pint at The Victory and ever tasty thai with the lovely folk at the Pearl of Samui. Very heartening to hear they'd had a busy Easter weekend.

Monday, April Fools Day, we strolled over to the Art Exhibition in the Walton Maritime Museum, which was a rather cramped location for the large number and scale works on show. It did remind us that it was about time we revisited the museum proper though. Then on along the beach to Walton Pier, and then up past the beach hut building site next to Clifton Court (shoring up for more huts or private development, we couldn't tell) and along the cliff top as far as the path down to Frinton Esplanade (Walton has a Promenade). A lovely sunny day, albeit accompanied by a biting cold wind. Mid afternoon train to take afternoon tea with John, then back to the smoke.

Also picked up Kathy Jarvis's Top 10 things to do in Huaraz, Peru (via @AndeanTrails). I particularly like the sound of a visit to the Sierra Andina brewery, and the indulgence suggestions!

Taking the number 8 bus from St Paul's we headed east. Half an hour later, we alighted at Parnell Road/Old Ford Road, crossed the footbridge over the Blackwall Tunnel Approach road and on through the industrial estates of Fish Island - home to Percy Dalton's Famous Peanut Company's former factory and evangelical church hallls. Our destination, Roach Road and the lovely Counter Cafe.

Ensconced upstairs in splendid isolation we had a view out over the Lee Navigation, with narrowboats moored and joggers jogging on the far bank. Just the other side of the high wire fence that still surrounds the Olympic Park, diggers and construction vans whizzed hither and thither - although quite what they were doing was a mystery.

Turkish eggs, a full English and two cups of coffee later we headed back out, crossing the Hertford Union Canal where it meets the Lee just north of Old Ford Lock. Turning left, we walked the length of the towpath. Hackney's Victoria Park is on your right for a chunk of the route, while on the other side of the canal, there are houses, factory-warehouses and, increasingly, des res apartment blocks.

Reaching the junction with Regent's Canal, we decided against turning left (which would have taken us to Limehouse - we're saving that route for a day when we can walk back along the northside of the Thames), and instead continued westerly until the towpath ran out at Islington Tunnel. So, after a mooch around Angel, we headed back home; the next stretch of the Regent's Canal to be done another day.

On the long length trouser front, I went for Gelert Women's Hill Walking Trousers and Terrain Trekking Trousers, based on the GearWeAre review.

I've also fixed up with Val to bring some solar lights and clinic kits, provided via the charity Light Education Development.

KE Adventure Kit Bag

Gelert trousers

KE Adventure T shirt

Itinerary

Getting there: Evening flight from London Heathrow to Madrid, then an overnight flight to Lima.
PHH/2 Day 1: Arrive Lima, transfer to Faraona Grand Hotel.
PHH/2 Day 2: A long day in our bus as we make the long drive across the Punta Conococha (4100m) to the town of Huaraz (3091m), where we check into the group hostal Hotel Colomba.
PHH/2 Day 3: We have a sightseeing and acclimatisation day in Huaraz, with the option of an easy 2-hour walk above the town. We will also visit the local craft market.
PHH/2 Day 4: Another acclimatisation day, with the option to make the 5-hour round trip towards a viewpoint near Laguna Churup (4500m), for views of Huascarán (the highest mountain in Peru (6,768 m / 22,205 ft) ) and other impressive peaks.
PHH/2 Day 5: Driving through Chiquián to Quero, we meet our trek crew and start walking, as far as Marhuay where we camp in the grounds of the school.
PHH/2 Day 6: Today, we ascend beside the Rio Radiash and enter the Quebrada Radiash where we make camp (4170m). After lunch there are a few ridges that we can investigate if we have the energy.
PHH/2 Day 7: Diverting from the main Huayhuash trail, we cross two passes, Punta Milau (4660m) and Punta Sacsa (4750m). Descending from this pass, we camp at Quartlehuin (4200m).
PHH/2 Day 8: Cross Cacanampunta (4700m) and descend into Quebrada Caliente before entering a tributary valley which leads to Laguna Mitacocha (4200m). We set up camp below the lake at Janca.
PHH/2 Day 9: We climb to the next pass, the Carhuac (4650m) and have views of Siula Grande (6,344 m / 20,814 ft) from a nearby hill. We then descend to a camp at 4200m above Laguna Carhuacocha and beneath the impressive peaks of Yerupajá (6,635 m / 21,768 ft) and Jirishanca (6,126 m / 20,098 ft).
PHH/2 Day 10: A long day, with a choice of routes via Punta Suila (4800m) or Punta Carnicero (4600m) to reach the small hamlet of Huayhuash (4300m).
PHH/2 Day 11: For the next 3 days, we use our local knowledge to deviate from the 'normal route' and seek out the very best of the 'hidden' Huayhuash. We climb to cross the Portachullo de Huayhuash (4750m) and then descend to a camp below Trapecio (4500m).
PHH/2 Day 12: A steep ascent leads to Punta Trapecipo, at 5000m where we have superb views of the Huayhuash and Rata peaks.We have various options from this pass to ascend other viewpoints before descending to our camp and descend to our camp (4500m).
PHH/2 Day 13: We have the option of travelling down the Quanacpatay valley or crossing another pass to reach our next camp at Cototambo (4230m) where we have a fantastic view of Siula Grande.
PHH/2 Day 14: A day for rest and/or exploration. We have the option of trekking up to Siula Grande Base and even further to Passo Seria (5200m)
PHH/2 Day 15: We trek down the valley to the village of Huyapplla and the ascend to reach Whatia, below Punta Tarpush (4800m). Camp at Whatia.
PHH/2 Day 16: Today, we cross the Punta Tarpush (4800m) and have the option to ascend Cerro Jyamy (5000m) from the pass. Descend to a lakeside camp (4500m).
PHH/2 Day 17: After an initial descent, we trek up to the Punta Jahuacocha (4850m). A steep descent then leads to the lovely camp at Whacrish (4350m).
PHH/2 Day 18: We have the option to cross another pass to reach Jahuacocha, or take the more direct route with the crew. The campsite at Laguna Jahuachocha is one of the most beautiful in the whole of South America!
PHH/2 Day 19: Today we cross the final pass of the route, the Punta Llamac (4500m) and then descend to the village of Llamac (3250m). Here we say goodbye to our trek crew and meet our vehicles for the 5 hour drive back to Huaraz. Arriving in Huraz we check into our hotel and there will be time for a quick clean up before dinner and a soft bed!
PHH/2 Day 20: After a leisurely breakfast we set off for the drive back to Lima where we check back in at the Faraona Grand Hotel and say au revoir to our Huayhuash trek mates.
PHH/2 Day 21 / IMP/47 Day 1: Afternoon flight to Cusco and transfer to our centrally located hotel, Amaru Hostal. The rest of the day is free to relax and acclimatise.
IMP/47 Day 2: We transfer to the Sacred Valley where we enjoy a full day of sightseeing visiting Inca sites with a local guide. We will visit the artisan market at Písac and the Inca ruins at Ollantaytambo. Overnight in the group hotel in Ollantaytambo.
IMP/47 Day 3: After a short transfer to Piscacucho (Km. 82), we begin trekking the Inca Trail, today walking as far as Llactapata where we have our first night of camping.
IMP/47 Day 4: Contouring above Wayllabamba / Huayllabamba, with great views of Huananay, we climb on the Inca Trail through beautiful cloud forest to our campsite at Llulluchapampa (3650m.).
IMP/47 Day 5: Today we cross Warmiwañusca / Huarmiwanusca Pass (4200m) and Runkuraqay / Runccuracay Pass (3985m) trekking through luxuriant forest to reach our overnight camp at Phuyupatamarka / Phuyupatamarca (3650m).
IMP/47 Day 6: Our final day on the Inca Trail leads us through the Inti Punku (Sun Gate) to Machu Picchu (2400m). From here we take a bus down to our hotel in Machu Picchu Pueblo (formerly Aguas Calientes) (2040m) where we check into our hotel.
IMP/47 Day 7: A whole day to explore Machu Picchu. Following a guided tour of the citadel we have some free time to explore the monument, before we catch the train to Ollantaytambo and drive to our hotel in Cusco.
IMP/47 Day 8: Afternoon flight from Cusco to Lima, then an overnight flight to Madrid arriving the following afternoon and on to LHR.

Phil and I went to catch the first run as it passed through Barbican station en route to journey's end at Moorgate.

The 09:55 Kensington Olympia to Moorgate was a steam-hauled staff-only service comprising newly restored 'Metropolitan 1', Metropolitan Railway 'Jubilee' carriage No. 353 (built 1892, restored) plus the Chesham set of coaches (on loan from the Bluebell Railway), with Metropolitan Railway electric locomotive No. 12 'Sarah Siddons' bringing up the rear.

The train passed through Barbican underground station a few minutes earlier than the advertised time (10:29). Fortunately for those of us on platform 2, there was no westbound service in the station at the time.

Metropolitan Locomotive No. 1 passes alongside Barbican platform 1

A snippet of history, courtesy of the London Transport Museum's coverage of the 150th Anniversary of the London Underground:

"On 9 January 1863 the world's first underground train pulled out of Paddington station to make the first passenger journey - 3½-miles under the streets of London from Paddington to Farringdon and into the record books."

Ian Visits has Best places to photograph London Underground's heritage steam train trips.

We feasted, elegantly, on an array of very fine finger sandwiches, served on a three tier stand together with freshly baked scones with strawberry preserve and clotted Devonshire cream and a selection of afternoon tea cakes and pastries.

Loose leaf tea (we went for Darjeeling First Flush), and a glass of champagne to celebrate.

Plus a birthday cake, complete with candle and applause.

Lovely.

Sugar and tongs, clotted cream and strawberry jam

• changed the colour scheme from deep red to steely blue
• changed the sidebars (columns 2 and 3 on each page) for all the pages other than those in Reading
• brought 'About Me' onto sidebar 1, and removed it as a page
• moved the search down to sit below the archives, which are simple links rather than a calendar display
• moved the randomised Flickr photo feed from sidebar 2, to lower down in sidebar 1 (a bit too low, as you have to scroll to see it - that's something to tweak)
• edited the text associated with the feeds
• repurposed sidebar 2 to display a tag cloud of the tags associated with entries about the places I've been to
• introduced a new page, for Where I've Been
• removed the Comment option throughout - far too much of a spambot magnet.

Here's a souvenir of the old style SparklyTrainers home page:

Friday afternoon train to Newport, rendezvous with Dave who drove us on to Steffi and Morris's (Maurice's?) for another slap up dinner (and a few bottles of red wine). Jake arrived from Bristol and we headed over to Newgale for a night in the 'van.

Saturday (photos): Puffin Shuttle Coastal Bus to Marloes, then a stroll back along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path to Newgale. After a grey start, we spent most of the day walking under glorious blue skies, and it was warm enough to sit outside for our fab pub lunch at the The Castle in Little Haven.

Beautiful late afternoon light over Newgale Beach and a magical sunset. Back to the 'van for tea and cake, then cheese and wine, and au revoir to Jake.

Sunday (photos): back to Steffi's and a stroll through Minwear Woods before a marvellous Morris Sunday lunch. Then back to the smoke....

One tip I'd pass on is that, even in July, it's cold camping - particularly when you're in glacial valleys such as you'll find at Le Peuty (Trient): wonderful doing the washing up with views of the glacier, but even with Phil's Ajungilak 3 season sleeping bag and thermals, I was really cold that night. So, add a season more to the sleeping bag you think you'll need. I also wish I'd taken a washing line of sorts - I usually hijack a guy rope, but our dome tents didn't have them.

Second tip: the Chamonix-Mont Blanc website is a fount of information, and has great weather forecast graphics.

My photos are accumulating on Flickr in my Mont Blanc Circuit set, and I've tracked down a few other collections too:

• Vicki's are on Exodus' TWB images page (it's the July 2012 set)
• Steve's are on Flickr: Tour du Mont Blanc
• Hazel's are currently MIA, but should materialise on Flickr too. Who am I to judge?!

Saturday 14 July 2012: London - Geneva - Les Bossons (Chamonix-Mont Blanc)

A better Heathrow experience this time, flying Swiss Air to Geneva - although as it's a shorthaul route, they only offer a very small sandwich for lunch. More alarmingly, our fellow passengers were so abstemious on the alcohol front that Hazel and I were worried that there wasn't any, until the lady in the row front of us led the way with a bottle of wine. Phew. Nice Swiss chocolates for pudding too. A lot of waiting at Geneva for all the various Exodus flights to arrive, and then an hour by coach towards Chamonix where Frank left us with our hosts for the fortnight - trek leader Simon and cook and tent wrangler Ben.

A short walk from the drop off point brought us to the Camping Les Marmottes, where we settled into our tents and then settled onto camping stools to get to know our fellow walkers over tea and biscuits al fresco.

Simon gave us a pre-dinner briefing about the trip as a whole (heli evacuation - check your insurance covers it, or you'll have to buy Exodus insurance then and there - kit and safety), the plans for our first day up in the mountains tomorrow, and the honesty bar (it took me a few days to wear down healthy-H to indulge in the beer and chippies treats available therein...). We then adjourned to 'The Marquee' for dinner, where we polished off Ben's hearty three course meal (the first of many): hummus and things to dip, mushroom risotto and a pudding I've forgotten (everything paled in comparison with The Tiramisu). The other table drew the short straw and got washing up duty (although our luck was to prove short lived)

No sign of Bastille Day celebrations in Les Bossons, and no sign of any mountains either - just a disappointingly grey glacier on the other side of the valley. A cool and cloudy afternoon/evening with occasional spells of drizzle didn't auger well for a fortnight under canvas. I was feeling worried that I'd persuaded Hazel under false pretences - particularly after discovering that there was another Exodus, hotel-based trip running in parallel with ours....

Sunday 15 July 2012: Les Bossons (Chamonix-Mont Blanc) - Les Praz - La Flégère - Réserve Naturelle des Aiguilles Rouges (Aiguilles Rouges Nature Reserve) - Col des Montets - Les Frasserands

We woke to rain, and after a damp breakfast and our first tussle with Kili (we had to pack up our "2 Seconds + III" each morning - it's not easy wrangling a c160cm diameter dome tent back into its 81cm diameter flat pack carrying case) we loaded our main packs into the van, said au revoir to Ben and headed off with Simon to catch the bus from Les Bossons school to the nearby village of Les Praz.

The Téléphérique de la Flégère took us up from the Chamonix-Mont Blanc valley floor up to La Flégère at 1,894 m, where we swopped rain for cloud and a good few °C. Togged up in windproofs and waterproofs, we headed off along the footpath following the signs for Col des Montets - Simon had told us that the poor weather conditions meant that we would not be able do the planned high level route via Lac Blanc with its vertical ladders...

Still, the cloud and raindrops made for lovely flower photos in the Aiguilles Rouges National Nature Reserve, and Waiora and I got some glimpses of glaciers on the far side of the valley ahead and behind, waterfalls and the bright green lichen on the rich red iron rich gneiss rocks that give the Aiguilles Rouges mountains their name - the Red Needles. There's something quite magical about walking through the quietude of cloud.

As the day wore on, the skies cleared and we got better views of mountains above us and across the valley, including the Glacier du Tour. Waiora and I even had our own close encounter with a pair of Ibex, grazing in between the Alpine Rose (Rhododendrons) that cover the mountainsides in this part of the world. Shortly after, having enjoyed an easy day's walking along undulating path (the cable car having done the hard work of the ascent for us) we started the steep, zig zagging descent back down to the road, where we rendezvoused with Simon at the information centre at Col des Montets (1,461m).

A short stroll later we were walking through the bucolic alpine village of Les Frasserands, where we found the rest of the group soaking up the sun at the campsite. After a rather late lunch, Hazel and I wandered into the town (Argentière, in fact - I think!) with Vicki and Rachel and treated ourselves to a jug of Jupiler beer served by a waitress from Wolverhampton at a bar in the village centre. A bit too cool to loiter for long once the sun went in/down.

Dinner was a feast served up in the dining room at Camping Les Frasserands - complete with a magnificent cheeseboard....

Monday 16 July 2012: Les Frasserands - Aiguillette des Posettes (1,997m) - Col de Balme (2,191m), cross from France into Switzerland - descend to Le Peuty (1,326m)

We woke to blue skies, the overnight rain having cleared the clouds. It left the lush green grass of Camping Les Frasserands soaking wet, so wrangling the tent into its bag provided a second morning ablution. The mountains were magnificent - white snow caps against bright blue skies, jagged grey peaks gradienting into the greens of the fir trees and alpine grass cover. We could just make out the cable car lines stretching up towards the peak at Les Grands Montets (3,295m).

After breakfast in the open barn we'd camped by, and baguette sandwich making from the vast array of fillings, we were off. Having retraced our steps past the picturesque village and Heidi farms, Simon paused at the signpost that marked the start of the day's climb up to the Aiguillette des Posettes and thence to the Col de Balme.

Waiora and I took it easy up the footpath through the forested slopes that cover the ridge, spotting flowers and butterflies en route, eventually emerging alongside the high grasses and flowers in the alpine meadows which led up to our first rendezvous with Simon, at a rocky outcrop which provided a great vantage point for beautiful views back down the Chamonix valley, and up at the various Aiguilles that tower above Argentière.

Up above the treeline, the path climbed wooden steps pinned onto rocks, with stunning views of the mountains, including a clearer view of yesterday's Aiguilles Rouges, the Vallorcine valley and the barrage d'Émosson (Émosson dam and resevoir) to the left; and to the right, Les Grands Montets and the Aiguille du Chardonnet (3,824 m) and the Aiguille du Tour (3,540 m) embracing the glacier du Tour.

We do-si-doed with the hotel group along the final stretch along the ridge that took us to the Col des Posettes where we took panorama after panorama of beautiful vistas before dropping down amongst the Alpine Roses and wildflower meadows with a dispersed herd of classic Milka cows. A short stiff climb back up took us over the Col de Balme and out of France and into Switzerland. We picnicked late and illicitly at the Refuge de Balme, supplemented by an overpriced 3€, lukewarm cup of tea from our less than gracious hostess. Switzerland stretched out in front of us and in the patch of snow below a party of Koreans who had made the ascent on the Charamillon-Balme cablecar took photos, and a hardy few tried their hand at sledge-free sledging.

An easy path led us slowly but surely down back to the tree line and eventually into the meadows of Le Peuty (1,326m) near the head of the Trient valley.

The campsite at Le Peuty was classified as one of the two 'wilderness' ones on the itinerary. I'd call it 'basic' - it's set up and run as a campsite, located next to the public loos and with a covered seating/kitchen area. Boots off, I joined the rest of the group relaxing with beers and a fabulous view of the Trient Glacier which turned from blue to pink as the evening fell, providing a scenic backdrop for our half's first go at washing up, before turning in for a somewhat cold night's sleep under canvas.

Tuesday 17 July 2012: Le Peuty (1,326m) - Col de la Forclaz (1,527 m) - Bovine (1,987m) - Champex (1,470m)

Probably the coldest (and rather patchy) night's sleep of the whole route. I blame the Trient Glacier and the steep slopes of the stunning valley setting! It meant that morning tea and breakfast was very welcome, and fortified we set off on a brisk 45 minute ascent to the road at Col de la Forclaz - home to a hotel serving coffee on the terrace, and a shop selling squeaky marmots and 3D maps of the TMB. We indulged in the coffee but not in the shopping.

It was then a nice stroll to Bovine, aptly named as the area was rich in meadows and cows, and, naturally, a cheese farm. We walked with the hotel group for much of the way to our next stop at the Alpage de Bovine, which came complete with views out over the Rhône valley, the Mont de l'Arpille above and the large looking town of Martigny below, and reclining deckchairs....

Initially the route on took us along a fairly level footpath traversing the slopes and steams coming down from the Fenêtre d'Arpette. However, the descent to our picnic lunch spot on the banks of one of the streams was rather more vertical, and muddy. As well as the forested view out over the valley below, there were plenty of flowers and butterflies, and less idyllically, signs of path repairs by bulldozer.

After a cool drink with a view at another buvette (I forget the name, possibly Plan de l'Au) but it came complete with loos, splendid views out over the Arpette Valley, and a final glimpse of the Rhône valley as we turned south towards Champex. We took the route forestière, which made for easy walking, especially once we were on the tarmaced section from Champex d'en Haut. Declining an icecream at the collection of wooden houses clustered around the Auberge Gîte "Bon Abri" (I had in mind scoops, not Wall's/Miko), we continued to our campsite on the outskirts of Champex-Lac, where we soaked up the sun and tucked into afternoon tea and biscuits à la Ben at the tables and benches of Camping Les Rocailles reception lodge, which segued into beers and crisps and then dinner. I forget what glories Ben cooked up, but his meals were always great.

Wednesday 18 July 2012: Champex (1,470m) - Issert (1,055 m) to Praz de Fort via the Val Ferret - La Fouly (1,600 m)

A relatively gentle day.

Saying au revoir to the Camping Les Rocailles, we strolled down to the Lac de Champex, admired the quirky wooden animal carvings and gathered as a group at the southern end. There Simon briefed us on the day's route to and through the Val Ferret.

The footpath to Issert lay mainly through woods, home to more carved wooden animals and a vertical ladder to the top of a look out rock which sadly proved to have a firmly padlocked metal door which precluded access to the view. Still, we emerged shortly after to be greeted with views out over towards Orsières which turned out to be pretty fine - lots of lush green colours, meadows, woods and forested mountain peaks - and the village cafe at Issert provided a fine double espresso (the one, admittedly small, complaint I'd have about the catering on the trip is that the coffee was instant....) and old wooden buildings.

Crossing the La Dranse de Ferret river, we wandered through the hyper picturesque hamlets of the Val Ferret - plenty of timber farmhouses and geraniums, plus the occasional gnome. We crossed back over the river at Praz de Fort, and once Wairoa had caught us up we headed out of the village and up a ridge to lunch amidst the pine trees on the west side of the river. If memory serves, the ridge actually covered the pipes of a large hydroelectric power plant above Saleina, hence Prise d'eau de Saleina.

The afternoon's route was at our own pace, with the footpath through the Forêt des Planereuses hugging the mountainsides above the river, before broadening out into meadows by the climbing wall and waterfalls at Tsamodet on the approach to La Fouly.

Another splendid campsite awaited at Camping des Glaciers - fabulous views up towards the l'A Neuve cirque and glacier and the Tour Noir plus plentiful hot water in the bathroom/kitchen block and a dining hut (almost) all of our own, complete with log stove. We whiled away another late afternoon soaking up the sun, drinking tea, chatting, washing, and I took the opportunity to recharge my camera batteries from the van's multiway plug socket set up. They thought of everything....

Dinner was delicious - tomato salad and bruschetta (I think), thai green curry, and the (in)famous tiramisu, which featured plenty of booze. We slept well!

Thursday 19 July 2012: La Fouly (1,600 m) - Alpage de la Peule (2,071 m) - Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) - Refugio Elena (2,061 m) - Arnouva (1,769 m) - Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m)

It was a day to say Tschuss to Switzerland (our time here was short but sweet) and Ciao Italia as today's route took us to the head of the Swiss Val Ferret, across the Grand Col Ferret and into the Italian Val Ferret, aka the Val d'Aosta.

We left La Fouly along the road, catching views behind us of Mont Dolent, before turning off the road and onto the footpath towards La Peule. There were a few more stretches of tarmac en route, but having crossed back over the Dranse de Ferret at Les Ars Dessous the slow, steady climb we were on an unpaved track, overtaking and being overtaken by a large group of American schoolkids, carrying heavy looking packs.

After a breather at the Alpage de la Peule, where we admired the cows and the yurts(!), Hazel, Waiora and I continued our steady ascent towards the Grand Col Ferret. As we climbed under grey skies, it got colder, windier and bleaker, so our lunchtime stop at the Col was decidedly brief. Still, enough time for photos of us at the highest point of our TMB, and into Italy along the Dora di Ferret, winding its way down from the Pre' De Bar glacier towards Courmayeur, passing beneath the Grandes Jorasses.

A steep descent was broken by the need to take more photos at almost every turn, but eventually we reached our rendezvous with Simon at the Refugio Elena where we treated ourselves to the super gloopy Cioccolata Calda (I didn't realise at the time that the unctuous consistency is usually generated using cornflour... ) to fortify us for the final 45 minute stroll down the road to the bus stop at Arnuova (1,769 m), where the tarmaced road runs out. It was a little further (and less obvious) than we thought, and even with gravity assisting us we only just made it with a few minutes to spare.

The Savda bus brought us to Camping Grandes Jorasses on the northern edge of Planpincieux, where we were to have the luxury of two nights, and showers at 0.50€ per 15 liters of hot water. Exodus cover the first 0.50€ each day, and 15l proved enough (for me!). A cool afternoon and evening, so after sorting out our tent and a cup of tea and a biscuit, Hazel and I stretched our legs with a stroll down to Planpincieux and views up to the Grandes Jorasses, Pointe Helbronner and assorted glaciers before the epic 16+ pizza gluttony dinner, provided by the Camping Grandes Jorasses's onsite pizza oven.

Friday 20 July 2012: Rest day featuring the Funivie Monte Bianco up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m) (actually Rifugio Torino Nuovo at 3,375 m) and Courmayeur (1,224 m), and finishing up with a fine meal in Planpincieux (1,593 m)

Vicki, Hazel and I opted to get up early and head up to Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). We successfully caught the Savda bus from right outside the Camping Grandes Jorasses down to La Palud, and whilst we were ahead of the crowds on the Funivie Monte Bianco cable car, our plan to cross the Vallée Blanche to the Aiguille du Midi was thwarted by major repairs being carried out on the Télécabine Panoramic Mont-Blanc, so we opted for the shorter hop up to Rifugio Torino.

At 34€ the tickets were Not Cheap, but the stunning views from the various viewpoints made it worth every €, and all 200+ steps up from the Rifugio Torino Vecchio (3,335 m) to Rifugio Torino Nuovo (3,375 m): to the east (and a tad north) Aiguille Noire de Peuterey and Les Dames Anglaises, Mont Maudit and Monte Bianco; to the south, Gran Paradiso and Grivola and more ahead, to the west the Dente Del Gigante (Dent du Géant), Aiguille de Rochefort, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Cervino (aka the Matterhorn), Mont Vélan and Monte Rosa, and to the north and closer by our feet the blankets of snow and glaciers.

Mont Blanc itself remained elusive however, keeping a shroud of cloud despite our best efforts to wish it away (and making no appearance on the information panoramas either!). The only (other) fly in the ointment were the construction works taking place to build a new cable car station above Pointe Helbronner. The building site looked terribly precarious teetering above us, and sent down small avalanches of scree.

After a good few hours (and lots and lots of photos), we took the cable car down to the Pavillon du Mont Fréty (2,173 m) where the air was warmer and we pottered around the Giardino Alpino Saussurea which provided photos and names of many of the flowers we'd seen so far.

There our luck ended as we just missed the once-an-hour bus from La Palud to Courmayeur and the walk along the main road proved longer and hotter than hoped. Still, once in Courmayeur we armed ourselves with an icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel and having (quickly) explored the town, we settled at a pavement cafe for a light lunch.

Courmayeur clearly caters for the well heeled, and we were there at lunchtime shutdown, so with no shopping opportunities to keep us in town we caught the bus back to base to potter the rest of the afternoon away. For dinner, we headed down en masse to Planpincieux to eat at the Chalet Proment. An excellent suggestion from Simon and Ben (who ate there too, and booked us a table) - tasty local dishes, a good choice of wine and lovely waiters.

Saturday 21 July 2012: Camping Grandes Jorasses, Planpincieux (1,593 m) - Lavachey (1,642 m) - Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m) - Armina (2,009 m) - Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - Col Sapin (2,436 m) - Testa della Tronche / Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m) - Monte Della Saxe / Mont de la Saxe - Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) - Courmayeur - Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény

A wonderful day's walking. Despite an ominous weather forecast, the rain held off and although clouds stayed resolutely settled over the Mont Blanc Massif, we got occasional glimpses of glacier, smashing views of the valleys and the skies stayed blue(ish) above us.

Saying au revoir to Camping Grandes Jorasses we took the bus back up the Val Ferret to Lavachey (1,642 m) and, skirting the hotel, followed the signs for Rifugio Walter Bonatti (2,025 m). After a steep ascent through woodland we emerged onto the side of the ridge and wound our way along largely the level taking in the glorious views across the Val Ferret to Les Grandes Jorasses, and meeting plenty of people coming in the other direction.

After a breather at the Bonatti (where we watched a couple of Italian chaps photographing the glaciers and admired the 3D relief maps inside the Rifugio itself) and coffee and hot chocolate for some, we continued on along the path passing through alpine meadows to the shepherds' huts at Armina (2,009 m), and then turning left into the Arminaz valley, following the stream up to the ruins at Tsa de Secheron (2,200 m) - a beautiful green valley carpeted with wild flowers, and with those elusive marmots making an appearance.

We lunched at Tsa de Secheron, admiring the views back down towards Les Grandes Jorasses and the Glacier de Tronchey and Glacier de Praz-Sec (I think!), then put our best feet forward for the stiff zig zag climb up to Col Sapin (2,436 m), at the head of the Val Sapin. In between Val Sapin and Val Ferret rises the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe (Mont de la Saxe), which was to be our route back to Courmayeur.

But first we had a further 150 m to climb up a steep and slippery sandy path to reach the Testa della Tronche (Tête de la Tronche) at 2,584 m.... the stunning panoramic views from the cairn were worth it: to the east the exposed rockface / scree ridge we've lunched under turned out to be Tête Entre Deux Sauts, and continuing clockwise from there, a hanging valley that could take you back to Rifugio Bonatti, followed by grey views of the Grande Rochère (3,326m) and the Aiguille de Chambave (3,067) with the Arminaz / Armina stream tumbling down into the valley between them. Crossing the forested slopes of the Val Sapin brought Courmayeur into view, with Mont Chétif and Val Veni (Val Vény) bringing the panorama round to the Ghiacciaio della Brenva (Glacier de la Brenva) and the cloud shrouded peaks of the Mont Blanc Massif that loom over Val Ferret.

After photos and sweets we set off at our own paces downhill, relatively steeply at first until we'd passed the Testa Bernarda (Tête Bernada, 2,534 m) before the path levelled for a lengthy undulating stroll along the ridge of the Monte Della Saxe which runs pretty much East-West. Ahead of us we had the stunning pyramid of Mont Chétif while to the north we had elevated views of the glaciers that flow down and around Les Grandes Jorasses and the Aiguilles Rouges de Rochefort. Behind us, to the east, we might have been able to see our route down from the Grand Col Ferret had the weather been clearer but even so we had a great view back up Val Ferret, and further along the Monte Della Saxe a bird's eye view down onto Planpincieux. And everywhere, throughout the day, beautiful flowers.

As we drew closer to the end of the ridge, Pointe Helbronner, Rifugio Torino and the cranes at the construction site of the new cable car station came into clear view - but Mont Blanc and associated ridges, peaks and passes remained hidden.

A steep descent brought us to picturesque Rifugio Bertone (2,000 m) and more reclining deckchairs to take the weight off our feet. Another steep descent took us down into the tree line and - eventually (the walk down felt neverending, especially for the knees) - to pretty Villair Superiore and thence into Courmayeur... just in time for another double scoop icecream from the gelateria yogurteria on Piazza Brocherel, and the 4.30pm bus.

The bus took us up the steep, narrow and winding road into Val Veni.... with more than a few close encounters with other vehicles, before we reached the day's end at the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire. Glorious hot showers, stunning scenery (including, naturally the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, this time from a different angle) - plus a beer and chippies or two...

Once the sun went behind the mountains it got a tad chilly, but dinner at La Zerotta warmed us up - particularly the meat and cheese platters for starters! The tomato pasta main course was a bit ropey, but the kitchen won us back round again with the dark chocolate torte for dessert.

A smashing day.

Note: I must credit the map (fig 1) in Interactions between rock avalanches and glaciers in the Mont Blanc massif during the late Holocene by Philip Deline, for helping me to identify the glaciers, and Walking Europe & Beyond for the description of the route (albeit in the reverse) in Walk 6103 - Courmayeur - Mont De La Saxe - Val Ferret.... when Wikipedia and Google Maps don't quite give the detail I need!

Sunday 22 July 2012: Campeggio Aiguille-Noire, Val Veni / Val Vény / Val Veny - Rifugio Elisabetta (2,195 m) - La Casermetta (2,365 m) - Col de la Seigne (2,516 m) - Refuge des Mottets (1,870 m) - La Ville des Glaciers (1,789 m) - Les Chapieux (1,549 m)

After breakfast in the Campeggio Aiguille-Noire's newly built recreation room for campers, we took the bus to the end of the line further up the Strada Val Veny, thereby avoiding a couple of roadside kilometres on foot. After an easy tarmaced zig zag ascent, the road evened out and eventually dwindled to a rocky track which led along the broad base of the Vallon de la Lex Blanche / Vallon de la Lée Blanche, and alongside the still, reflective waters of Lago di Combal. Beautiful blue skies above, lush greenery all around and peaks and glaciers galore. Our morning route had taken us past the gravel and tree covered, Mexican moustache shaped Miage glacier without really noticing it.

A stiff climb brought us to our first rest point at the Rifugio Elisabetta / Refuge Élisabeth (2,195 m), with beautiful wildflowers in the adjacent meadow and a stunning view back down the valley and across to the Ghiacciaio della Lex Blanche / Glacier de la Lée Blanche.

After exploring the deserted buildings (apparently an old army/frontier post, called Alpe Inferieur de la Lée Blanche) we continued along the upper valley to the relatively recently restored La Casermetta (2,365 m). En route Vicki and I went off piste in pursuit of marmot photo opportunities and our descent back to the path involved a careful snow bridge crossing over one of the glacial streams.

La Casermetta is now an alpine information centre, complete with annotated panoramas so you know the names of the peaks and glaciers you're admiring - left to right we had Aiguille des Glaciers, Aiguille de de la Tré la Tête, Pyramides Calcaires, Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Grandes Jorasses, Grand Combin, Mont Fortin, Mont Perchet, Col Chavannes and Mont Lechaud - together with display boards and posters about the local alpine flora and fauna, which has helped heaps with my flower identification! It was a perfect lunchspot, especially when the local marmot family came out to play.

Another 150m or so brought us to Col de la Seigne (2,516 m), the pass between Val Veny (Italy) and Vallée des Glaciers (France) where, as the English gent at the cairn commented, it was as busy as the Isle of Wight on an August bank holiday! Still, great views in both directions.

The descent into France was gentle at first but grew steeper, with a series of toe crunching zig zags bringing us to the delightful Refuge des Mottets. After a breather at the picnic tables and use of the loos (ever practical), Hazel, Jamie-Lee, Annette and I decided to forgo the minibus option and walk the 5 km of road that would bring us to our campsite at Les Chapieux. To be honest, the relentless tarmac made for pretty tough going, and I was very glad when the tents came into view. According to the trip notes, this campsite was the other 'wilderness' one - and again I'd simply call it basic. It was a little further to walk to the loos adjacent to the information centre, but the camping area was vast (handy given the number of Dutch camper vans in situ).

After a late afternoon's relaxation in the sun (with regulation tea and biscuits provided by Ben) we wandered up to the Auberge de La Nova, where we feasted on braised pork cheeks (for the meaties), lasagne (for the veggies) and roast potatoes, and treated ourselves to a carafe or two of vin rouge....

Monday 23 July 2012: Les Chapieux (1,549 m) - Col de la Croix du Bonhomme / Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme (2,443 m) - Col du Bonhomme (2,329 m) - Col de Balme / Refuge La Balme (1,706 m) - Camping Le Pontet, Les Contamines-Montjoie (990m)

The high ridges that surround Les Chapieux kept the warming sunlight away from our campsite's valley floor location, making for a chilly start to the day. Still, climbing up the hillside to the north of the village soon warmed us up, and once we were above the shadow line we were soon down to T shirts.

Just over an hour of uphill at a relatively good pace brought me up onto the windswept hilltop at the Col de la Croix du Bonhomme almost 1000m above Les Chapieux. The col is home to the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme - a lovely refuge, which comes with an amazing location and a stunning array of cake! Time to treat myself to a large coffee and an equally large slice of honey nut cake, with DIY spoonfuls of blueberry (?) compote - delicious!

Once everyone had caught up and made the most of the refreshments, it was back outside into the wind, contouring round to the Col du Bonhomme (2,329 m). Beautiful views east over the valleys, forests and peaks of the Beaufortain, and glimpses of the Lac de la Gittaz reservoir.

Great views of the valleys either side of the Col du Bonhomme, but the wind made taking photos (and standing upright!) tricky, so after a quick picnic lunch we headed down into Val Montjoie. A steep descent with a snowfield crossing became more gentle as we turned away from the Aiguilles de la Pennaz, only to turn steeper as we approached our next stop at the Col de Balme, where we sat at the outside tables of the Refuge La Balme (1,706 m).

Refreshed, it was an easy stroll on down the valley of the Torrent Le Bon Nant, crossing the Pont de la Téna and walking on Roman paving. The church of Notre-Dame-de-la-Gorge reassured us that we were on the right path, and 45 minutes later we were at Camping Le Pontet, our home in Les Contamines-Montjoie for a couple of nights.

Tuesday 24 July 2012: Les Contamines-Montjoie

Our rest day coincided with market day, so we walked into Les Contamines and browsed the stalls, refreshing with a coffee in a cafe before purchasing lunchtime goodies and checking email at the internet PCs in the excellent office de tourisme.

Back at base we did a bit of washing and rucksack reorganisation then picnicked on baguette, butter, cheese, céleri rémoulade and olives, washed down with a rather nice bottle of rosé. All of which resulted in a lazy afternoon.

Dinner at the onsite restaurant at Camping Le Pontet was rather disappointing in comparison.

No photos!

Wednesday 25 July 2012: Les Contamines-Montjoie - Auberge Le Truc (1,720 m) - Refuge de Miage (1,560 m) - Col de Tricot (2,120 m) - Bellevue (1,800 m) - Col de Voza (1,653 m) - Les Houches - Les Bossons

Today would bring us back into the valley of Chamonix-Mont Blanc, and it felt far too soon to be returning to Les Bossons. Suddenly the end was nigh....

After our final tent wrangling, and Stephen and Ian demonstrating their double act tent-taking-down skills for the rest of us, we said au revoir lovely Camping Le Pontet and walked down to Les Contamines, turning off at the signpost for Le Truc. A steep climb up through pine trees eventually brought us out above the tree line at Auberge Le Truc (1,720 m). The morning's blue skies and bright sun made for poor photos of the Glacier du Miage and the peaks above, including the elusive Mont Blanc and the Aiguille de Bionnassay.

A descent into the next valley brought us to the Refuge de Miage (1,560 m) in its stunning location below the glacier and the Dômes de Miage (but the sun was still working against my photos!). Refreshed by coffee and cake (I declined the blueberry tarte at 7€ a slice...), we commenced the long haul and many zigs and zags up to the Col de Tricot (2,120 m). En route, it did indeed feel frustrating to have lost the 200m between Auberge Le Truc and Refuge de Miage! Still, the views from the col were smashing - north into the Bionnassay valley with the line of the Mont Blanc Tramway just discernable, and south back over the Miage valley and to the ridges beyond. A great spot to rest for a while.

The next stretch took us down into the Bionnassay valley and more great views of the peaks and glaciers of the Mont Blanc Massif up to our right, and we lunched with a stupendous view looking up the Glaicer de Bionnassay at the Aiguille de Bionnassay and Dôme du Goûter.

Accompanied by Alpine Roses and woodland we descended towards the Torrent de Bionnassay, and crossed, carefully, over the cable suspension bridge. A very busy section followed, up to Bellevue where the tramway and the cable car from Les Houches deposit strollers, hikers and mountaineers alike. Those with tired legs opted for the cable car down, the rest of us continued to the Col de Voza (1,653 m) and then took the black run down to Les Houches - the sandy/scree track made for tough going on the knees.

Having made a rainy rendezvous at a bar in Les Houches, we squeezed onto the bus back to Les Bossons - hello again Camping Les Marmottes .... and BONJOUR MONT BLANC! Yes, at last.... we realised what we'd missed on our arrival... the amazing views of the Glacier des Bossons, Mont Blanc and the Aiguille du Midi - and many more peaks and ridges besides. The colours turned from blue to white to rose pink as the sun set. Beautiful.

Thursday 26 July 2012: Les Bossons - Refuge de Bel Lachat (2,152 m) - Le Brévent (2,525 m) - Planpraz (1,999 m) - Chamonix - Les Bossons

Turning right onto the side road to Camping Les Marmottes, we crossed the river Arve and climbed up through the trees the cover the mountains on the north side of the Chamonix valley. A stiff section of road brought us to the Parc de Merlet (warning: music!) and then back into the trees to zig zag ever higher up the slopes of the Aiguillette des Houches. Traversing the flanks of the réserve naturelle de Carlaveyron we had splendid cloud free views back out over the valley to the Mont Blanc and neighbouring peaks, ridges and glaciers stretching from the Aiguille du Goûter (3,863 m) in the west to Aiguille Verte (and a bit beyond) in the east.

After a long hot climb we emerged onto the hilltop and Refuge de Bel Lachat (or Bellachat) came into sight. The terrace proved to be a lovely place to take in the scenery, including the paragliders soaring over the valley.

Refreshed we continued on and up, less steeply now and above the treeline, walking amidst the green-lichen coated rocks and green grassy uplands of the montagne de la Coquille. Plenty of photo opportunities, until the going got stiffer on the final slog up the boulder/scree path to Le Brévent. It had been a lot busier on trail than we'd become used to, and the cable car station and restaurant explained why. As did the views - the best of the whole trip - not just over to the Mont Blanc Massif, but to our north we had the reds and greens of the Aiguilles Rouges. Stunning.

After lunch looking out at the Mont Blanc Massif, as an English gent captured it in watercolour next to me, and a potter around the viewing area (taking a gazillion photos and panorama), Hazel and I headed off downhill to Plan Praz in the company of Annette and Jamie-Lee. At Plan Praz we hopped into the cable car for the final descent into Chamonix, catching up with the rest of the group at the bus stop by the Hotel Richemond.

Back at the campsite, another evening with magical rose tinted views of the mountains and glaciers above Les Bossons.

Friday 27 July 2012: Free day - Les Bossons - Chamonix town - Farewell dinner at Restaurant Le Tremplin

Hazel and I opted to walk into town, along the footpath on the north side of the river Arve. En route, a lovely view of the Le Brévent cable car gliding between the mountains above.

After coffee and macaroon at a cafe in Chamonix's pedestrianised centre we pottered around buying postcards, thinking about buying a 3D map, and eventually buying picnic treats for lunch, which we ate back at Camping Les Marmottes. A very civilised afternoon reading in the sun followed, hearing what everyone else had been up to as they returned from the town, and, in Vicki's case, the Aiguille du Midi.

In the evening, we glammed up (as much as it's possible to glam up when you've been living out of a rucksack for almost a fortnight) and strolled up to enjoy our farewell final group meal al fresco on the decking of Le Tremplin.

Saturday 28 July 2012: Les Bossons - Chamonix - Geneva - London

We had a free morning and the cloud had returned, so we took the bus into Chamonix for a final potter round, and coffee in a pavement cafe before making our way to the rendezvous-pick up point at Hotel Richemond, where the Hotel Group were staying.

The coach continued on to Les Bossons, to collect our bags and those of our group who were on the Geneva-London flight. Farewell to Simon and Ben, then, chaperoned by Frank and Mrs Frank, we were driven to Geneva airport. Knowing the 'rules' for the Swiss Air flight home, we enjoyed our glass of wine and minibar of milk chocolate, and landed in LHR to be greeted by the smoothest, quickest passport control there ever, several groups of enthusiastic games makers, and a marvellous atmosphere.

The London 2012 Olympic Games Had Begun, and London and the UK were on a high.

[Enfin le fin: 24 November 2012]

The highlights: the stunning wild flowers and, of course, the mountains. Just beautiful both. I took tons of photos* - no surprises there.

En route to Rifugio Elisabetta, Val Veny

Meadow flowers

After a damp and cloudy first day the weather was hot and sunny right through until our departure day - which was much, much better than I'd expected. In fact, I could have done with more T shirts (or washing powder and a camping clothes line). The campsites were great - far better than expected. The 'wilderness' ones were, in fact, basic public campsites, while the 'normal' ones came complete with hot showers!

With a final rest day in Les Bossons / Chamonix on Friday and and easy journey home today (LHR passport control was a breeze - we spent longer waiting for our bags to arrive), my legs have just about recovered.... and it's fantastic to have returned to find London en fête and in love with the Olympics.

A little bit sad that my new job means that's my big travels done for this year.

* 1,701 in fact...

I really like the Chamonix Weather, the Chamonix Mont Blanc tourist office's weather page, too - particularly the graphical representation of the variation across altitude for today/tomorrow - but it only shows a 5 day forecast and I need a tad more crystal ball gazing to help fine tune my packing.

Talking of packing, I've treated myself to a new daypack: it's a Lowe Alpine AirZone ND 32, women's specific fit:

Activities were limited to pottering down to and around Antibes town, gawping at the floating gin palaces large yachts in the harbour, and reading and eating back at IWW's flat. As is customary, meals revolved around cheese, butter, wine, salamis and salads from the Carrefour supermarché at the end of the driveway to the flats, with the bakery 5 mins downhill supplying fresh pains de campagne and assorted croissants.

We watched the sadly washed out Diamond Jubilee River Pageant on BBC World/CNN, glad we only felt obliged to catch the highlights.

That said, we did manage one rather more active day, walking the Sentier Littoral that runs along the Côte d'Azur from Plage de la Garoupe to Villa Eilenroc. The round trip from the flat included the roadside walk into town and then a slog along the coastal boulevards from Plage Royal Beach to Plage de la Garoupe. Bus No 2 runs along this stretch of the Riviera, but the Sunday service is infrequent - plus it was the sunniest day of our stay!

Here's what we did on our Wild Walk in the Taurus Mountains, which featured selected sections of the St Paul Trail (plus a couple of extra days in Istanbul at the end for me and Hazel), with links to photos from each day.

To sum up, a good walking holiday with a great guide - I'd go on another trip with Mike Belton any time. He wears his knowledge and expertise lightly, and makes every effort to ensure everyone has the best experience Turkey can offer. I've added Mount Ararat to my list of places to visit (and mountains to climb).

Saturday 28 April 2012: London - Istanbul - Antalya (photos)

Our Wild Frontiers' Wild Walk in the Taurus Mountains did not start well, with a very delayed flight from LHR to Istanbul (and lots of boring hanging around in terminal 3).

But having landed in Turkey, a mad dash and charm got us through passport control, customs and visa purchase and from the international to the domestic terminal, with minutes to spare before our onward flight was due to depart....

.... and then we found that the flight on to Antalya was delayed, presumably because so many people were on the inbound London flight - including the Team GB Archery squad, en route to the Archery World Cup tournament also taking place in Antalya.

Hazel's rucksack didn't make it, but Mike was on hand at the airport to help out with paperwork/procedure, and to transport five weary travellers into Antalya old town where a late dinner awaited at the lovely Mediterra Art Hotel (warning: comes with music...).

The remaining 3/8s of the group were already there, having flown direct with easyJet - I'd recommend doing that if you decide to do this trip.

Sunday 29 April 2012: Antalya - Kırıntı - Balkırı - Akpınar - Lake Eğirdir / Eğirdir (photos)

After an early breakfast in the open air, poolside courtyard of the Mediterra Hotel, we piled into the minibus and squeezed out of the narrow streets of Antalya old town.

Once out on the open road, we drove past giant greenhouses of tomatoes and cucumbers, orange groves with amazingly fragrant blossom, and, in time, reservoirs formed by small scale hydroelectric power generating dams in the foothills of the Taurus mountains.

In the upland valley, we lunched at a family fish restaurant in Kırıntı, and then drove further up to summer meadows to start our first walk. A short, afternoon stroll, Belton style: undulating. With snowy forested ranges to our left, and grey silhouetted mountains behind, we walked up through what, in a matter of weeks, would be summer shepherd pastures.

The clouds behind promised rain, which caught up with us just as we crossed a ridge - so it was a speedy descent into the valley where we chanced upon the mess tent of a newly opened marble mine. There are lots in this part of the world - vast white wounds cut into mountainsides dominating the surrounding countryside. Sheltering from the rain, we were given tea and introduced to Mike's trail mix, which would turn out to be a daily treat.

Once the rain eased, we set back off along the trail, pausing to take in the views out over Lake Eğirdir before dropping down via orchards and orchids to Akpınar and thence by minibus into Eğirdir town.

After a quick shower and settling our stuff in our room at the Otel AltınGöl, Hazel and I headed out for a stroll around down - tranquil evening light over the lake, the sky still heavy with cloud. We scrambled up to the remains of the castle, and returned to the hotel via the Hizir Bey mosque and Dündar Bey madrasa.

Dinner at the Melodi restaurant, out on the "island", Yeşıl ada.

Monday 30 April 2012: Eğirdir - Davraz Massif - Kulovası Yaylası / Davraz Ski Lodge (photos)

After breakfast we scooted back to the Hizir Bey mosque and Dündar Bey madrasa for a daytime visit, but the man with the key to the mosque sadly failed to materialise. So it was au revoir Eğirdir.

A half hour or so's minibus ride brought us into the hills north west of Eğirdir, and having stopped in a small village we filled up our waterbottles at a commemorative water fountain and admired the mysterious whirling dervish statue, before starting our first full day's walk.

We strolled on a rocky path between almond orchards and fields of roses and then headed up through oak woods, making for the pass a few hundred metres above. Plenty of stops en route. Hot work.

Once at the pass we found ourselves in upland plateau, littered with empty army ration packs - the area is used for commando training, but that's no excuse.

Although there was more uphill ahead, there were beautiful flowers underfoot - plus surface level mole "burrows" or runs, revealed by the winter snow melt. As we climbed, we skirted a short section of very resilient snow, harbouring yellow and pale purple crocuses.

Tasty picnic lunch under a fir tree, then onwards and upwards towards the snow, scrambling over boulders to reach the col... where rather more substantial snow fields awaited us, together with ominously heavy grey clouds. Tomorrow's route had already been changed to avoid the late lying snow which still made the Davraz Dağı pass impassible - Mike told us it has been a hard winter - but it turned out that today's path would need to be adapted too.

So, off we set, literally in Mike's footsteps, across the snow. Three snow fields, a steep descent and stream crossing later we were back on a rough road - only to find that it too was blocked by snow, so it was a bit more "up and over" before we made our final descent across the grass slopes towards the ski lodges on the Kulovası Yaylası.

After many many cups of reviving tea, with biscuits, in the reception of the Isperia Davraz Hotel we had revived enough to venture down the corridor to our giant room. After a requisite wash and brush up and camera battery recharge, we returned to the vast lounge-cum-dining room for more tea, a browse through Mike's two volume photographic encyclopaedia of Turkish flora (for me) and a complicated looking game involving 6 dice for Fiona, Jay and Hazel.

In front of the open log fire, lit on request, Mike gave us a great hour's run through Turkey's geography, history and cultures, and then it was time for dinner. We were the only guests, which made for a fine meal.

I think we all slept well that night....

Tuesday 01 May 2012: Kulovası Yaylası / Davraz Ski Lodge - Yukarı Gökdere - Adada - Kasımlar (photos)

Snow on the high passes of the Davraz Massif meant that we were doing an alternative, lower level route today, but after yesterday's snowy terrain I don't any of us minded!

A short drive from the Isperia Davraz Hotel brought us to the start of today's hike, summer grazing meadows where we were offered apples by one of the shepherd ladies in the tent village there. A lovely stroll through the yayla's green pastures, with the occasional skirting of fiercely protective shepherd's dogs, and closer inspection of a more docile tortoise.

As we walked further into the valley, the pine covered mountain sides closed in and we were soon walking through forest, emerging for a stretch along a forest track and for views out over the snow covered mountains - which proved a good spot for lunch. Blue skies today, so we were glad of the shade when, at the elephant rock, Mike took us off the "main" road and back onto a footpath that wound up through woods of oak, cedar and juniper that form the Kasnak Meşesi Ormani Nature Reserve.

Having admired the giant Kasnak Oak, it was handy to have the minibus cover the kilometres of tarmac that led down to the village of Yukarı Gökdere, where we sat sipping tea outside the çay bahçesi and tucked in to Jean's fruit cake.

A slightly longer minibus ride brought us to the remote Roman ruins at Adada, where we had the temples and theatre all to ourselves for almost the whole time.

Then on, driving through meadows and pasture, wending our way between the mountains to Kasımlar, where we were the inaugral guests in Abdulrahman Kokdogan's brand new en suite bedroom block. After a shower, time for a smashing dinner in traditional style, sat on cushions at low tables in the main lodge room.

Wednesday 02 May 2012: Kasımlar - Damla - Kesme - Çaltepe (photos)

A lovely village breakfast, then a short hop in the minibus to takes down the steep stretch of road from the top to the bottom of the village of Kasımlar, where we started our onwards descent on foot heading for the bridge over the river Köprüçay. Grey skies overhead, cuckoos calling in the woods, flowers by the roadside. A stroll through meadows and fields, right past the front door of the farm, and on up to the spring/water fountain and cemetery at Yukarı Fındık Kabristanlıgı, 5km from Kasımlar, 7km to go to Kesme.

After a stroll through sheep and goat grazing shrub land, it was up, up, up up along pine forested and rock strewn gully, with rockfaces towering above. We emerged into a green expanse of upland meadow, the perfect setting for a shepherd hut complete with frog filled pond. A great place for a bit of a rest and refuel, with amazing limestone rock formations in the valleys ahead, and stunning views out across to snow covered mountain ridges.

It had been a morning full of flowers: Orchids, Squill / Scilla, Daphne, Daisies, Pansies, Violets, Grape Hyacinth, Clover, Star Thistles / Knapweed, Primroses, Borage (Alkanna aucheriana).

Rested, and entertained by the local goats, we weaved our way down through the karst fairyland, and along bare rock ledges where lizards sunbathed.

We lunched at the spring and natural stone bridge at Damla, where a mother and daughter were looking after sheep, goats and cows. Across the Köprütaş bridge, Mike led us through the mysterious remnants of an ancient civilisation, with a paved pathway leading to a cave with carved portico, and stone building blocks bore carved Manx-like symbols. Skirting clockwise round the hilltop, passing ancient threshing circles, we had stunning views out over the mountain ranges and of the shining minarets of Kesme in the valley below, both demanding lots of photos, none of which really do either any justice.

A tricky bit of navigation for the initially steep descent distracted us from the scenery, and the rain just about held off for our final drop down into another limestone wonderland, parallel ridges of rock looming over alleys of grass, which then widened out encompass freshly ploughed fields on the outskirts of Kesme.

Refreshed by tea, we left Kesme in the minibus, pausing at a village house where ladies were hand spinning goats' hair. Reaching the outskirts of Çaltepe, we turned off the road and drew up at Erdinc and Emine's new chalets, complete with en suite bathrooms and al fresco dining. Lovely, albeit a little cool under cloudy skies. After a wash and putting the camera batteries on to recharge, time for tea and chat before dinner was served - plenty of excellent stuffed aubergine for me. More chat around the fire once night fell, but not a late night with those lovely new beds calling....

Thursday 03 May 2012: Çaltepe - Selge / Altınkaya (photos)

A tasty breakfast, then farewell to Erdinc and Emine, as we left to drive through Çaltepe and on to the starting point for today's hike: a house built on a rock. Turning off the road, we walked through walnut trees and past limestone chimneys sprouting Judas trees. This morning's path took us through woodland, and along sunken stretches of ancient Roman and Ottoman droving roads, with a stone cut staircase bringing us into the village of Kestanelik (village of chestnuts). After a stretch along the road, we reached the next village, Delisarniç where we had a breather in a meadow by the cemetery before taking the track down through the woods to the stream - bone dry and stony at this time of year, but you could see from the debris how high the waters would run.

From the stream we climbed up, an easy path through woods, with lots of pink daisies and purple violets, and occasional rests to take in the views. A thick blanket of cloud meant that we didn't get the most amazing views, but given that we didn't know any better the ones we had were still great.

Then a more gradual descent, through pine forest, past ancient terraces that show how far Selge stretched in its heyday, and more limestone rock oddities. A shower delayed lunch until we reached woodland cover, and soon after we emerged into farmland fields and meadows for a beautiful walk that brought us back down to a stream, which descended further as we stayed on the level, giving lovely river valley vistas.

Reaching the road, it turned out we'd arrived in Selge (aka present day Altınkaya). Our accommodation in Selge was at Adem's lodge, which was the most basic of the whole trip but still perfectly fine. Once we had settled on one room for the ladies, the other for the gents, we sorted out mattresses and unfurled our sleeping bags, over several glasses of tea at the outside picnic tables. The cloud cover continued to deny us our mountain vistas, and indeed it meant that our much anticipated evening beer in the ruins of the Roman theatre was a rather chillier affair than we'd hoped. That said, the ancient Greek theatre itself was stunning (heaps of photos!), only a short walk from Adem's house, and the perfect place for Mike to fill us in on lots more history and architecture before we strolled back for dinner and then to bed to play "guess the snorer" well into the night.

Friday 04 May 2012: Selge / Altınkaya - Tevfik's House (photos)

We had a splendid couple of hours in the morning exploring the ruins of Selge with Mike. It's an amazing place - and, unlike Aspendos, it's free, unspoilt and in a stunning setting. We had the whole place to ourselves, without a Roman Centurion in sight. Plus the cloud had lifted, a bit.

Taking our leave of Adem and his wife, it was a short minibus drive to our drop off point for the start of the day's hike to Tevfik's House. Hot and humid, and a lot lower down in terms of altitude than we had been for a while, it wasn't that pleasant walking, especially through the maquis as that obscured what views there were until we emerged into meadows a long way down from the road above.

Lunch in the shade of an old oak tree, sat on the walls of an old ruined house, then on down towards the thundering waters of the Köprüçay River at the point where it forces itself through a hole in the limestone. Rain en route, and far more water in the river than usual - the "beach" was drenched and the waters muddy.

It felt like a long way along a forest track to Tevfik's Mountain Lodge, but once there we found ourselves in a smashing place. Lovely wood cabins with en suite bathrooms and balconies, and a shady dining deck with views out over the fields and over to the sheer rock faces of the Köprülu Canyon reaching up towards Selge.

Time to relax.

Saturday 05 May 2012: Tevfik's House - Köprülu Canyon - Eurymedon Roman Bridge (Oluk Köprü) - Köprüçay River - Aspendos - Antalya (photos)

Although we were due to have a relatively late and leisurely breakfast, I was awake not long after 6am - and a peer through the curtains revealed cloud right down to the river. Decidedly errie. But by 8.30 breakfast time, the sun was out and the skies were blue - and indeed we had great weather all day.

Leaving Tefvik's House, we walked along a narrow path through the woods that come down to the river in this stretch of the Köprülu Canyon - indeed, with the river running high, some of the trees were under water. Still, all the water made for exciting excusions out onto the rocks in a couple of places during the morning, including the famous viewpoint over the Canyon just above the Oluk Roman Bridge, which turned out to be disappointingly modern in its reinforcement, and just down stream hordes of holiday makers were setting off on their white knuckle river rafting adventures.

A lovely lunch at a shady fish restaurant on the banks of the river Köprüçay, before travelling on to the famous ruins at Aspendos. They may be famous, but they weren't my favourite by a long way. Too many people, too much hassle, not enough wow factor. A well preserved theatre, but everything else is decidedly disappointing, although the aqueduct is impressive and the souvenir sellers surprisingly relaxed.

Back in Antalya, a quick bag drop in our (new) rooms at the Mediterra Art Hotel, then an hour seeing the sights with Mike: Hadrian's Gate, the narrow streets and old houses of Kaleiçi, the Hıdırlık Tower keeping watch over the coast and the harbour, the famous fluted minaret of Alaaddin Camii and the broken minaret of Kesik Minare.

After a long awaited wash and brush up / shave for some of the chaps / Gin and Tonic, we headed off into the night for our final group dinner in the courtyard of the Parlak restaurant, followed by a few more beers / rakis close to the hotel watching Saturday night life, Antalya-style.

A day of abrupt changes; this lovely trip had come to an end far too fast.

Sunday 06 May 2012: Antalya - Istanbul (tour ends) (photos)

Au revoir Antalya, Hello Istanbul!

For those on the group flight, breakfast in the courtyard was so early that we had to leave before the kitchen staff started for the day, but - brilliant to the last - Mike provided pastry goodies, sweet and savoury, from the bakery down the street.

Farewells in the lobby, as Jay and Fiona were staying for a couple more days and Nick was on a Monarch flight back to the UK, then quiet minibus ride to the airport for Jean and Brian, Helen, Hazel and me. Sad farewell to Mike, then a speedy check in for Turkish Airlines TK2409 to Istanbul, and not long to wait once through security.

Once back on the ground, it was final, hectic farewells at Istanbul as Helen, Jean and Brian headed off to the International Terminal, and Hazel and I went out to find our driver... who was ready and waiting for us at the arrivals gate.

Easy journey into Sultanahmet, where we were deposited at the lovely Turkoman Hotel - another Thelma tip, it's a restored, Ottoman era town house. Great location, amazing view of the Blue Mosque, roof top dining room and terrace and lovely staff - what more could you want (a larger bathroom, apparently, if you're American).

Refreshed by a complimentary turkish coffee on the roof terrace, we headed out to see some sights, starting with the Hippodrome and the columns within it, then straight into the grounds and courtyard of the amazing Blue Mosque. We'd arrived during one of the day's closed periods (which only means you can't go inside, and there's plenty to see on the outside), so we continued out exploration round the back of the mosque, and worked our way round to the Hagia Sophia, where the queues were ginormous. We spotted 3 massive cruise liners docked at Karaköy, which probably contributed to the volume of people and the length of the queues, as we passed lots of tagged tour groups.

Continuing on, we passed the beautiful Fountain of Ahmed III, strolled through the grounds of the Topkapı Palace, and then dropped down towards the waterfront at Eminönü and crossed the Galata bridge to Karaköy. A lot of uphill brought us to the Galata Tower, again with a long queue.

Back over the bridge, we explored the Spice Market, the Egyptian Bazaar and the streets around the New Mosque, but our attempts to return to our hotel via the Grand Bazaar were thwarted by key streets being cordoned off for filming... the new James Bond film, apparently. No sign of Daniel Craig though, sadly.

Once we did make it back to the hotel, it was time for a beer on the roof terrace, and to admire the minarets and domes of the Blue Mosque in the afternoon light - beautiful blue sky, grey architecture and green leaves/trees. So, no surprise that we headed back to take some more photos en route to dinner at the Doy-Doy Restaurant, where we sat on its roof terrace with views over the Marmara Sea and the Blue Mosque. Food was so-so, but not pricey and - unlike the restaurant streets we'd walked through earlier - there was no hustle/hassle from the waiters.

Back to the hotel via Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque in their night time guise.

Monday 07 May 2012: Istanbul (photos)

Another day of sightseeing, under yet more glorious blue skies.

Fuelled by several trips to the Turkoman Hotel's delicious breakfast buffet, we headed back to the Blue Mosque to see the beautiful interior, then onwards to the Hagia Sophia (closed - we never did go inside), the Fountain of Ahmed III and into the Topkapı Palace, where we spent a good few hours exploring the courtyards, gates, gardens, kiosks and council rooms, and taking in the views.

After a picnic lunch in Gülhane Park, we wandered back towards the Egyptian / Spice bazaar, taking in the New Mosque en route. Back to base via the Basilica Cistern and the side streets of Sultanahmet.

We had a beer aperitif on the roof terrace, and then wandered down to Dubb Ethnic Restaurant (warning: music!) in the part of Sultanahmet that hides between the Blue Mosque / Hagia Sophia and the Sea of Marmara. A nice stroll back to the hotel, and more wonderful night time views of the Sultanahmet sights.

Tuesday 08 May 2012: Istanbul - London (photos)

Our final day, but given that our flight wasn't until 19:15, we had plenty of time for more sightseeing. We were a little weary by now, so we limited ourselves to a morning out at the Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı) and the Süleymaniye Camii (Süleymaniye Mosque), and spent the afternoon reading on the roof terrace.

Smooth transfer back to the airport, and a good flight home.

Background

We're booked: Wild Walk in the Taurus Mountains
Wild Walk in the Taurus Mountains: we're back

[01 July 2012: Photos and notes now complete]