Saturday featured a leisurely sending spree along the Kings Road, with co-shopper Hazel. A successful outing, in the shape of new clothes for work for us both.

Sunday required an early rise and shine to get to Harrold by 10.30, for the church christenings of Gregor and William Murdoch. Bank Holiday weekends being prime railway engineering works, we were fortunate in having the Denton taxi service on offer. Break down engine and digger discussions come free. A lovely day, with plenty of time to chat with Laura and Ian's family and friends - the last such occasion had been Findlay's christening....

Monday was a college day for Phil, which allowed me to spend the morning and early afternoon getting some more of my Bhutan photos online. I only managed to get one more day done - but it was the day we spent at the Paro Tsechu (festival). Phil and I did manage to squeeze in an hour or so enjoying the May sunshine in the Barbican garden before Flickr uploading and profiling resumed..... and the bank holiday culminated in a two hour tutu-making marathon on ye olde Singer sewing machine. The things I do for love....

I was particularly impressed with the shift from stage performance to film footage, achieved by the actor diving through the venetian blind film screen at the same time as their image appeared onscreen - a clever technique and dependent on precise location plus split second timing. As always, the physical movement and characterisations were excellent. The one element I found a bit trite was the use of the sea and crashing waves to depict the characters' emotional inner turmoil, although I can appreciate that the 1940s setting, and indeed the whole strength of the story, requires the characters to keep a stiff upper lip.

Well worth seeing, if you can get a ticket.

I may be some time.

What you see so far is days 1, 2 and 3..... most of which were spent getting to Bhutan. Day 4 we spent at the Paro festival where I took a bazillion photos of whirling dancers and Bhutanese dressed in their best togs .... and day 5 featured the fantastic Tiger's Nest monastery trek and is almost as bad in terms of the number of photos I took.

Maybe it wasn't such a good idea for Phil to buy me another 2GB memory card in anticipation of my Central Asia trip this autumn ....

It may be tricky adding my photos to the Flickr Map mind you:

Paro is somewhere around here - to the West of Thimpu and North East of Haa:

Happy Birthday to me!

Itinerary: Central Asia Overland

Day 1 Fly London/Beijing
Day 2 Arrive Beijing
Day 3 Visit Tiananmen Square and Forbidden City; fly Urumqi
Day 4 Visit museum; Drive Korla
Day 5 Drive to Kuqa
Day 6 In Kuqa; visit ancient sites
Day 7 Drive to Aksu; visit virgin forest
Day 8 Drive across Taklamakan Desert to Hotan
Day 9 In Hotan; visit Cottage Industries
Day 10 Drive Yarkand
Day 11 Drive via Uighur knife factory; drive to Kashgar
Day 12 & 13 In Kashgar; visit famous Sunday market; optional full day excursion through the Pamir mountains to Karakul Lake
Day 14 Drive via Kyrgyzstan border to Tash Rabat
Day 15 Drive Song Kul Lake
Day 16 Drive Bishkek; via Lake Issy Kul
Day 17 In Bishkek; optional visit Ala Archa gorge
Day 18 Drive via Kazakhstan to Tashkent
Day 19 In Tashkent; city tour
Day 20 In Tashkent; overnight train Urgench
Day 21 Arrive Urgench; drive Khiva; sightseeing in the Old City
Day 22 Drive Bokhara
Day 23 In Bokhara; tour
Day 24 Drive Karmana; continue to Yangikasgan; 4WD to camp, optional camel riding in desert
Day 25 Morning at Lake Aydarkul; drive to Samarkand
Day 26 In Samarkand; visit Gur Emir Mausoleum and Registan Square
Day 27 In Samarkand; visit Ulug-Beg observatory and museum; afternoon optional visit to Marakanda
Day 28 Drive Tashkent; fly London

I'd originally gone for the Secrets of Central Asia organised by Peregrine Adventures, which looked brilliant - lots of time camping/hiking in Kyrgyzstan, travel through the Fergana Valley and crossing into China via the Irkeshtam Pass. Got lots of info from them and an invoice.... only to get an email saying they'd mucked up and there weren't spaces after all. To be fair, the trip was a combo of two separate trips, and it was only one that was already full booked, but they were advertising the combined trip as a single tour.

Anyway, foiled on that front, I had a good look at what else was available, and as WF's Silk Road Odyssey was fully booked I've ended up on Explore's Central Asia Overland trip, September/October this year. What sets is apart from all the other Central Asia trips is the 10 days in the far west of China, another place that's been on my wishlist for a while.... plus that overnight train journey in Uzbekistan (I might see that in a more negative light after the event!!).

My main reservations are about going with Explore, given that they're more mainstream and the group size is relatively large. But then again, I would have thought anyone booking for 28 days in Sept/Oct to go to that part of the world isn't going to be that mainstream.

We were there to celebrate dad's three score years and ten, his third such birthday party in fact, featuring a lovely dinner at The Lygon Arms on Sunday evening, and a leisurely, Monday-off-work, breakfast-turned-brunch the morning after. Dad's already got his photos on Flickr; I need to work my way through Bhutan before I get to Broadway. I've been back a week, and the photos have yet to make it onto my Mac.

Days 4 and 5 were the highlights for me, featuring the Paro festival and the hike up to the Tiger's Nest. We were there during the country's first democratic elections, which was fascinating, and I returned with a commemorative calendar, prepared in advance of the Fifth King's coronation (due to happen this year - no one knows when!) and lots of woven baskets. Oh, and a taste for cheese and chilli dishes, plus a developing daily G+T habit.....!

Returning home to BJH via the 'new' St Pancras International has added somewhat to the out of body experience resulting from our 90 minute nap prior to driving across Kolkata to check in (early) for our 4.45am flight, which kept ahead of the dawn all the way back west to London Heathrow. I was a bit of disgruntled 'customer' even before we got to the airport. Still, the glamour of St Pancras and a mezze lunch Au Pain Quotidien with Phil, Paul and Jahraj sorted me out!

Work tomorrow. I'm taking my Kings of Bhutan commemorative calendar in for moral support.

March 2008 - Bhutan: "2008 January and February - A string of bomb blasts hits the country ahead of elections set for March 24. The attacks are blamed on groups fighting for the rights of ethnic Nepalis exiled in 1991." (BBC Country Profile - Timeline: Bhutan) 'Maoists killed' by Bhutan police (BBC news)
April/May 2007 - Iran: "2007 March - Diplomatic stand-off with Britain after Iran detains 15 British sailors and marines patrolling the mouth of the Shatt al-Arab waterway separating Iran and Iraq. 2007 April - President Ahmadinejad says Iran can produce nuclear fuel on an industrial scale." (BBC Country Profile - Timeline: Iran)
October 2006 - Pakistan: "Raid on an Islamic seminary in the tribal area of Bajaur bordering Afghanistan kills up to 80 people, sparking anti-government protests. The army says the madrassa was a training camp for militants." (BBC Country Profile - Timeline: Pakistan)
January/February 2005 - Nepal: "King Gyanendra dismisses Prime Minister Deuba and his government, declares a state of emergency and assumes direct power, citing the need to defeat Maoist rebels." (BBC Country Profile - Timeline: Nepal)

Maybe I should add flak jacket to my birthday list......

Documents
itinerary
insurance Policy
tickets
passport
(+ photocopies to passport identity page, Indian visa page and tickets)

India visa: multi entry tourist visa - in advance [done - thanks Hazel!]
Bhutan visa: 2 passport size photos and $20 cash (visa issued at the border)

Health etc
International Certificate of Vaccination
Typhoid, Tetanus, Polio and Hepatitis A [tick]

Personal first aid kit:
plasters
bandage
cotton gauzes
surgical tape
antiseptic cream
Ibruprofen
antihistamine cream
Immodium / rehydration sachets
mosquito repellent
vitamin B tablets

Money
cash: mixture of pounds sterling and US dollars
traveller's cheques
debit card

Exchange rates: www.oanda.com
At today's (tourist, cash) rate 100 Nu (Bhutan Ngultrum) = £1.24
1 Bhutan Ngultrum = 1 Indian Rupee
FXCheatSheet for Travelers

Bags
rucksack
daypack
money belt
plastic carrier bags
travel kitty wallet

Books
guidebook
novel - flight out
novel - flight back
novel - spare (x2?)

Clothes etc
3 pairs of trousers
2 light cotton shirts
2 T-shirts
1 long sleeved T-shirt
1 long sleeved cotton top
1 light woollen jumper
1 hooded cardigan
underwear (16 days)
socks
pyjamas
swimming costume

sun hat
sunglasses
sunscreen & lipsalve & aftersun/moisturiser

1 warm jacket
waterproof jacket
umbrella

1 pair of trekking boots
1 pair flip flops

silk sheet sleeping bag
towel
toothbrush & toothpaste
shampoo & conditioner & intensive conditioner
shower gel
nailbrush
flannel
hair brush and comb
hair bands and hair clip
antiseptic handwash
small packs of tissues and wet wipes
handkerchief
loo roll
washing up gloves
washing powder
universal sink plug
Swiss Army knife
sewing kit
torch
watch with alarm
ear plugs

whisky/gin
sweets
other treats
photos of home
notebook and pen(s)
moo cards

camera, cables, battery recharger unit
plug adapter
spare battery
additional memory

Still, refuelled we headed downhill skirting the edge of Brandon Hill and into Hotwells and over to Southville via the chocolate path and the cast iron pedestrian bridge over the River Avon.

Installed chez Cam and Dave, we caught up on their news and relaxed with David Attenborough's reptiles aka Life in Cold Blood.

The evening was nice and sociable, starting with dinner with for nine cooked by Cam - delicious lasagnes, meat and veggie, followed by a magnificent tiramisu - followed by comedy courtesy of The Comedy Box at the Hen and Chickens.

Sunday started with sausage sandwiches (yum!) to get us fired up for a country walk starting and finishing at the gorgeous Marshfield organised by a friend of Cam's. It was a lovely walk, plenty of time to chat and no rain, despite the forecast! And then a huge lunch at the Catherine Wheel pub in Marshfield - a gorgeous Georgian hostelry. I can see why it's so popular.

Back to Bristol for a breather, then the train back to London - packed to the gunnels due to engineering works, so thank heavens for booked seats.

Saturday's highlight was a visit to the Natural History Museum to see the Shell Wildlife Photographer of the year exhibition. Luckily all the families queuing to get into the NHM were intent on seeing the dinosaurs. The photos were stunning - almost unbelievably so in the case of the 10 to 14 and 15 to 17 age groups. It was interesting to read how the shots had been captured; some of them seemed rather too staged given the wildlife/nature theme.

Hazel nipped back to Clapham on flat business, and Cat and I walked back through Hyde Park, Green Park and St James's Park to Pall Mall. Beautiful blue skies but a cruel wind... After a late lunch we headed into the National Portrait Gallery to see the Photographic Portrait Prize exhibition - lovely. A very photographic themed day!

Reunited with Hazel, we caught the tube back to base and after a bit of a sit we got glammed up, slurped a chilled glass of wine each and headed out to Smiths of Smithfield. Sadly not a busy as we'd hoped with few opportunities for talent spotting!

After a Hazel-cooked brunch on Sunday morning, we headed over to South Molton Street for some shop shop shopping. Sadly I waved Cat off at Kings Cross without any new purchases. Home on the tube to the Barbican, where the Estate glowed under a brilliant blue sky, with a daytime moon. A prefect opportunity to photograph the towers, the moon, and reflections of both in the Bryer Court pond. Gorgeous.

Hazel proved keen too, and after a recce of the alternatives at the Adventure Travel show, we've booked on the Land of the Thunder Dragon Spring Festival Tour, which is timed to include the Paro Teschu.

Very excited now it's definite!

Destination: Bhutan (and India)

Why: Holiday with Hazel, timed to catch the Paro festival

When: March 2008

How: Land of the Thunder Dragon Spring Festival Tour, with Wild Frontiers:

• Day 1: Depart UK
• Day 2: arr Indira Gandhi International Airport Delhi, onward flight to Baghdogra/Guwahati (dep from IGIA Terminal 1b). Onward travel to India/Bhutan land border crossing at Phuntsholing
  
• Day 3: Phuntsholing – Paro
• Day 4: Paro Festival
• Day 5: Paro Festival – Thimpu
• Day 6: Thimpu: Dechen Prodrung
• Day 7: Thimpu – Wangdue: Huntsho Community Primary School
• Day 8: Wangdue – Punakha – Wangdue
• Day 9: Wangdue – Trongsa - Bumthang
• Day 10: Bumthang
• Day 11: Bumthang – Mongar
• Day 12: Mongar – Trashigang
• Day 13: Trashigang
• Day 14: Trashigang – Guwahati
• Day 15: Guwahati – Calcutta / Kolkata
• Day 16: Calcutta/Kolkata – UK

Information

• Wikipedia: Bhutan
• Wikitravel: Bhutan
• FCO travel advice: Bhutan
• BBC country profile: Bhutan
• Lonely Planet: Bhutan
• Local English language newspaper: Kuensel
• Other websites:
  • www.bootan.com: roadmap, news, travel tips, travelinfo
  • Bhutan travel

Language

• Dzongkha (official language of Bhutan)
• Sharchopkha (major regional language spoken in eastern Bhutan)
• Bumthangkha (regional language of Bumthang area)

Weather

Average temperatures
Source: http://www.bootan.com/bhutan/weather.shtml

Forecasts

• Delhi


• Baghdogra


• Paro


• Thimphu


• Kolkata

"The best of the lot, though, is the diary of Samuel Pepys, which a web designer called Phil Gyford has been posting in daily instalments since 2003, using the text already online at Project Gutenberg."

The Diary of Samuel Pepys is available at www.pepysdiary.com.

So this afternoon we've been busy with the following To Do list:

• Change the navigation, introducing horizontal tabbed navigation between the various bits of SparklyTrainers
• Introduce a more consistent look across the various bits, and more consistent navigation/information facets in the main sidebar
• Use the secondary, far right sidebar to draw in random pictures from my photos on Flickr on every page (other than in Reading)
• Relocate the Author tag cloud in Reading, from a separate page to the far right sidebar
• Revamp the home page to pull in more of the most recent entries from Blog and Reading
• Implemented Google Analytics, to feed my stats fetish

By "we" I really mean Phil, of course....

My To Do list now reads:

• Finish backfill of Author tags in Reading
• Update Where next?
• Update About me