walking – The travels of Mary Loosemore

Into the Pyrenees with Alfonso & Manu: Photos & Notes

This year, Alfonso and Manu organised two treks in the Pyrenees for Team Mucho Gusto: Carros de Foc and La Ruta de las Golondrinas.

The Carros de Foc is in the beautiful Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, and it’s a gorgeous part of the Pyrenees with lots of alpine lakes and forests, and granite underfoot. We did a 6 day route (5 days, plus an hour or so getting to our starting refugio in the Park on the first day): Refugio Ernest Mallafrè / Estany de Sant Maurici – Refugio J.M. Blanc – Refugio Colomina – Refugio Estany Llong – Refugio Amitges – Estany de Sant Maurici.

Alfonso's Outline for Carros de Foc — Alfonso’s Outline for Carros de Foc

La Ruta de las Golondrinas is further west and in a more developed area (roads, ski resorts) but beautiful deciduous forests and plenty of peaks plus limestone underfoot. Here we did the 4 day Golondrina Clásica: Refugio de Belagua – Refugio de Linza – Refuge de l’Abérouat – Refuge Jeandel – Refugio de Belagua.

Alfonso's Outline for Ruta de las Golondrinas — Alfonso’s Outline for Ruta de las Golondrinas

We were on the Spanish side of the Pirineos for most of the time, but las Golondrinas took us into France – and thus the Pyrénées – for a couple of days and nights. The trekking was straightforward (we didn’t tackle the trickier sections of the Carros de Foc) although las Golondrinas included one very long day (day 2) and one short section of cable to help us down from Pas de l’Osque on day 3.

Both routes made use of the refugios / refuges for sleeping and food with dinner, bed, breakfast and packed lunch coming in at around €75 pppn. The Spanish refugios were all excellent, the French refuges so-so. On the Carros de Foc we slept in dorms whereas las Golondrinas provided rooms for 8 or 4.

For the Carros de Foc you book direct, for las Golondrinas, which is a relatively new route, you can book a package and you’re provided with a map (and a branded T-shirt, thermos and swag bag!) at the start of the trek.

Maps: Editorial Alpina publishes the Carros de Foc hiking map and guidebook (ISBN: 9788480908641) and they also print the 1:25,000 Ruta de las Golondrinas map that’s provided as part of the package.

Photos are in my Flickr Album: Into the Pyrenees with Alfonso & Manu, August / September 2023

And here are Alfonso ….

Alfonso on the precipice rock looking out over Vallée d'Aspe, Les Tourelles (2041m) — Alfonso on the precipice rock looking out over Vallée d’Aspe, Les Tourelles (2041m)

… and Manu:

Manu on an avalanche barrier above La Pierre Saint-Martin

and one of the many, many teenage selfies taken on the trip:

Teenage Selfie! Pic d'Arlas (2044m) — Teenage Selfie! Pic d’Arlas (2044m)

We had a brilliant time. Here’s what we did.

Tuesday, 29 August 2023: Hereford – London (Photos)

Overnight: Hazel’s

Wednesday, 30 August 2023: Fly London Stansted to Lourdes (Photos)

Overnight: Luxury Loft Lourdes

Thursday, 31 August 2023: Drive Lourdes to Parking de Prat Pierró. Walk to Refugio Ernest Mallafrè (1885m) (Photos)

Carros de Foc day 1: 3.7km +241m -16m

Meet Alfonso, Manu & Esther.

Drive Lourdes – Vielha – Esterri d’Àneu – Espot – Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park / Parking de Prat Pierró.

Walk to Refugio Ernest Mallafrè via Els Encantats and Estany de Sant Maurici.

Overnight: Refugio Ernest Mallafrè.

Friday, 01 September 2023: Refugio Ernest Mallafrè (1885m) – Coll de Monestero (2715m) – Refugio J.M. Blanc (2310m) (Photos)

Carros de Foc day 2: 8.6km +850m -450m

Evergreen forests, alpine meadows with clear mountain streams, mirror pools and lake (Estany de Monestero), our first “elevenses” with a view back down into the valley of the Riu de Monestero, scree section up to the Coll de Monestero and magic views from the pass ….

Me and Rach at Coll de Monestero (2715m)

… descending towards the lakes and a photo opp on the granite block perched over a no-name lake, Estany Negre de Peguera and its beautiful stepped dam …

Beautiful stepped dam, Estany Negre de Peguera

… strolling through old pine forests, and getting our first sight of Refugio J.M. Blanc in its stunning setting on the Estany Tort de Peguera peninsula…..

… beers on arrival at the Refugio and, later, after dinner, relaxing on the sun deck at sundown and watching the lightening on the other side of the mountains.

Overnight: Refugio J.M. Blanc.

Saturday, 02 September 2023: Refugio J.M Blanc (2310m) – Coll de Saburó (2718m) – Pas de l’Ós (2542m) – Refugio Colomina (2395m) (Photos)

Carros de Foc day 3: 6.8km +400m -300m

The day of the Five Lakes…. Estany Tort de Peguera, Estany Negre de Peguera, Estany del Cap de Port, Estany de Mar and Estany de Colomina.

Map of today's route from Refugio J.M. Blanc to Refugio Colomina — Map of today’s route from Refugio J.M. Blanc to Refugio Colomina

At the Pas de l'Ós (2542m) — At the Pas de l’Ós (2542m)

A cool day, with rain clouds only just keeping above head height all the time we were out. And shortly after we arrived at lovely Refugio Colomina (my favourite), the clouds descended, the heavens opened and the wind picked up. Not nice walking for the family that arrived in dribs and drabs over the next hour or so. The Refugio team rallied round and provided hot drinks, towels, warm clothes, and asked us not to use the free, solar-heated, showers so that they could to warm up.

A lovely afternoon featuring Tea and Twix, Pochohontas and Ornitorrinco, and Tina’s Map – the one the professionals use.

Time for Tea and a Twix, Refugio Colomina

The Professionals Checking Tina's Map, Refugio Colomina — The Professionals Checking Tina’s Map, Refugio Colomina

It was also day where I discovered I’d not brought any spare charged camera batteries with me, and my one and only battery ran out at Refugio J.M. Blanc. Thank heavens for Manu’s Many Cables – and the Colomina’s bank of plug sockets. My batteries were back up to 100% in less than an hour.

Overnight: Refugio Colomina.

Sunday, 03 September 2023: Refugio Colomina (2395m) – Colladeta de Dellui (2557m) – Refugio Estany Llong (1985m) (Photos)

Carros de Foc day 4: 12.6km +400m -820m

A cloudy start developed into a very wet morning, but thankfully the rain (and wind) held off almost all the way to the Colladeta de Dellui.

Me (plus Estany de Mariolo, Estany de Cubieso and Estany Eixerola) on the trail up to Colladeta de Dellui

The morning featured a section along a disused mine railway line that brought a trip (me) and two falls (me & Esther), and a lot more lakes: Estany de Colomina, Estany Tort, Estany de Mariolo, Estany de Cubieso and Estany Eixerola, and on the other side of the Colladeta de Dellui, Estany de Dellui and the beautifully named Estanyets de Dellui.

Descending towards the Estanyets de Dellui

Grassland gave way to a rocky traverse with views down into the valley accompanied by Rachel’s emergency chocolate, followed by a descent through the Bosc de les Corticelles and the Bosc d’Estany Llong that brought chamoix, bilberries and juniper – and, as the rain started to ease off for good, Refugio Estany Llong.

Sodden boots off and wet stuff hung up to drip dry, we were welcomed in to picnic inside.

A sunny afternoon, just right for a stroll down into the valley of the Aigüestortes and a paddle in the Riu de Sant Nicolau – and pooh sticks.

The sunshine and the breeze made for perfect drying weather.

The night when the other English group agreed that “the bottom bunks ought to be reserved for the over 50s”. Ah, if only they knew ….

Overnight: Refugio Estany Llong.

Monday, 04 September 2023: Refugio Estany Llong (1985m) – Portarró d’Espot (2430m) – Refugio Amitges (2380m) (Photos)

Carros de Foc day 5: 8.1km +800m -500m

A fab day.

Sunshine.

The day our route did a short cut between two section of the Carros de Foc proper. Lovely trail, lovely weather, time to loiter and linger.

Lots of opportunities to Do Something!

"Do Something!", Rest stop and the last view of Estany Llong — “Do Something!”, Rest stop and the last view of Estany Llong

Franco’s Road, the Pi de Peixerani, Portarró d’Espot and its Mirador, smashing views of Estany de Sant Maurici and El Encantats …

At Mirador del Portarró, with views of Els Encantats (right) and Estany de Sant Maurici

… the Race to the Lone Pine ….

… raspberries, a paddle (for some) and a picnic at lunchtime, relaxing at Refugio Amitges, chanting on the shores of sparkling Estany dels Barbs, spotting Alfonso and Manu high up on their Agulles d’Amitges, and cold beers and cocktail snacks before dinner.

Cold Beers all round for the ladies, Refugio Amitges

Overnight: Refugio Amitges.

Tuesday, 05 September 2023: Refugio Amitges (2380m) – Estany St. Maurici (1912m) – Parking de Prat Pierró (980m). Drive to Vielha (Photos)

Carros de Foc day 6: 9.3km +40m -740m

A leisurely last day on the Carros de Foc, dropping back down to Estany de Sant Maurici via the exhilarating Cascada de Ratera and learning / singing Arde Londres.

Back at Estany de Sant Maurici we found a quiet spot for elevenses and Instagram, flocks of small birds and ripples of jumping fish, before walking back to Parking de Prat Pierró where it was time to say a fond farewell to Parc Nacional d’Aigüestortes y Estany de Sant Maurici.

Another lovely lunch at Restaurant Vall d’Àneu in Esterri d’Àneu then back to Vielha and two lovely rooms (and showers and clean clothes) at Hotel Eth Pomèr.

A magic evening out – presenting the Team Mucho Gusto T-Shirts (plus chutney and spare toothbrushes) at REFU Birreria followed by dinner at Woolloomooloo.

Hazel, Steffi and Me, in our Mucho Gusto T-Shirts, Vielha

No photos from the evening, so it must have been a good one… Oh, and Alfonso sent us a video of the three of them climbing back up to their Vielha base.

Overnight: Eth Pomèr, Vielha.

[20 October 2023: This is as far as I’d got when Phil and I headed off for our sunny week in Northern Italy. I’m flagging a bit having come back to finish off these photos & notes. So the daily descriptions may be a bit brief.]

Wednesday, 06 September 2023: Drive from Vielha to Refugio de Belagua (1428m) via Ainsa and Jaca (Photos)

A tasty breakfast buffet at Eth Pomèr, farewell to Esther, then the long drive west for our second short trek in the Pirineos, the Ruta de las Golondrinas.

En route we stopped at Ainsa (mediaeval hill town) and Jaca (canteen lunch, food shopping – Mini Magnums! – and perusing outdoor kit at Barrabés) but decided to skip Monasterio de San Juan de la Peña as we didn’t have enough time.

Refugio de Belagua (technically Refugio Ángel Oloron) was our base for the Golondrinas, and on a sunny September afternoon it was packed. Lovely views out over deciduous forests and back down the valley, and a super-well organised refugio with a really lovely team – who presented us with our surprise Golondrinas swag!

Overnight: Refugio de Belagua.

Thursday, 07 September 2023: Rincón de Belagua car park (~900m) – Collado de Maze (1540m) – Refugio de Linza (1340m) (Photos)

Ruta de las Golondrinas day 1: 14km +700m -350 m

Cathedral forests, meadows and sparkling spiders webs….

… a stiff climb, shady woods and a pincic … and showers, beers and Scrabble in Spanish at Refugio Linza

Overnight: Refugio de Linza.

Friday, 08 September 2023: Refugio de Linza (1340m) – Collado de Petrachema / Port d’Anso (2090m) – Refuge de l’Abérouat (France) (1442m) (Photos)

Ruta de las Golondrinas day 2: 21.6km +1300m -1200m

The longest day by a mile, in terms of both distance (~22km) and duration (we set off at 7.20am and finished at 6.30pm; 11 hours elapsed time). But really fab: startled chamois and whistling marmots; grassy valleys, limestone rocky plateau and scree descent; beech woods and streams, waterfalls and rivers; fab views from the Col de Pétragème, plus spiralling choughs and climbers at the base of the Petite Aiguille d’Ansabère, a novel-reading, red wine-drinking, hanging-chair-owning berger selling his goats cheese at the Plateau d’Ansabère …..

Alfonso and Steffi, at the start of the trail down from Col de Pétragème

…. and at the end, beers, cold beers, 7% beers!

Oh, and Bonjour la France!

The hardest section was the 4km on the road in the Vallée d’Aspe, partly because it was the literal low point of the day and we knew we had a 700m climb up to the refuge and partly because it was on superheated, radiating, tarmac.

Overnight: Refuge de l’Abérouat. <– aka the one with the ridiculously low headroom for the top bunk. I couldn’t even sit up without hitting my head on the ceiling.

Saturday, 09 September 2023: Refuge de l’Abérouat (1442m) – Pas d’Azuns (1862m) – Pas de l’Osque (1922m) – Refuge Jeandel (1620m) (Photos)

Ruta de las Golondrinas day 3: 11.8km +600m -400m (plus a bit extra for the Les Tourelles (2041m))

Panorama: Rach and Manu (and Alfonso) On top of Les Tourelles (2041m)

One of the best days, beginning with a rendition of Cumpleaños Feliz to send to Australia and featuring a scramble up Les Tourelles and chain descent from Pas de l’Osque.

Rach and me, scramble section complete, Les Tourelles ascent

Manu, me and Alfonso, on top of Les Tourelles (2041m)

Jeandel was a bit of a let down, and La Pierre Saint Martin sans snow is truly ugly.

Overnight: Refuge Jeandel. <– aka the one with the worst food (quantity and quality)

Sunday, 10 September 2023: Refuge Jeandel (1620m) – Pic d’Arlas (2044m) – Refugio de Belagua (1428m) – Rincón de Belagua car park (~900m) (Photos)

Ruta de las Golondrinas day 4: 16.5km +600m -1230m

Up Pic d’Arlas, and back down into Spain.

Alfonso, Pic d'Arlas (2044m) — Alfonso, Pic d’Arlas (2044m)

Rolling grasslands and an occasional stretch of tarmac brought us back to Refugio de Belagua.

After a late lunch, for the completists it was a super steep descent from Refugio de Belagua to the Rincón de Belagua car park to retrieve the van. Lovely end to a lovely trek.

Overnight: Refugio de Belagua.

Monday, 11 September 2023: Refugio de Belagua – Lourdes – London (Photos)

Drive to airport. Fly Lourdes to London Stansted. Train and tube to Hazel’s.

Team Mucho Gusto, and some sporting the exclusive Mucho Gusto T-Shirt

Overnight: Hazel’s.

Tuesday, 12 September 2023: London (Photos)

David Hockney: Bigger & Closer (not smaller & further away) at Lightroom in the Coal Drops Yard redevelopment north of Kings Cross.

A soft launch late lunch at Paro Indian (recommended!) followed by a tour of the outdoor kit shops of Southampton Street.

Overnight: Hazel’s

Wednesday, 13 September 2023: London – Hereford (Photos)

GWR train delay / termination at Great Malvern (grrr) made for a slow journey home – but Phil-the-taxi was waiting for me at Hereford.

Homeward bound. Thank heavens for the frozen jam doughnut.... — Homeward bound. Thank heavens for the frozen jam doughnut….

Overnight: Home!

Herefordshire Week 197: Tuesday 03 – Monday 09 October 2023

(A bit late with this one too – still playing catch up!)

A few more days in Northern Italy, then back to Herefordshire for TLC and two walks.

The start of “Herefordshire Week 197” was spent in Northern Italy and on the journey back home. You can read my write up here Northern Italy – Turin, Ivrea & Nomaglio: Photos & Notes, and Phil’s here Turin, Ivrea and Nomaglio.

Here are the main events from Week 197:

After a late start, our Tuesday in Turin on provided two highlights – Pastarell’s (twice) and Pandas! On the food front, we had a smashing veggie lunch from Mezzaluna, gelato from Gelateria La Romana on Santa Theresa and our second dinner at le vitel étonné.

Wednesday was split between Turin and London Gatwick. A last breakfast at Pastarell’s, a visit to the iconic Mole Antonelliana and the Museo Nazionale del Cinema (National Museum of Cinema), a second lunch at Mezzaluna, our first Bicerin to while away our final hour in Torino … and then I counted 234 Pandas between the bus stop and the airport. TWO HUNDRED AND THIRTY FOUR!

Good flight to London Gatwick which supplied M&S dinner and Premier Inn overnight to avoid the stress of trying to get to Hazel’s on a train and tube strike day.

Thursday saw us complete the rest of the journey back to Herefordshire by train, tube and Panda: London Gatwick – Farringdon – London Paddington – Newport – Abergavenny – Home.

Then over to Winchester to check up on a poorly dad and a stressed Jean.

On Friday it was back to the Dragons Back and Waun Fach with Sonia, getting in some ascents ahead of our Nepal trek. It was foggy, wet and windy on the tops. Sunny down in Crickhowell, where Latte Da still do excellent tea and cake!

Dragons Back and Waun Fach Circular: Sunshine over Crickhowell

Strava Map & Stats: Dragons Back and Waun Fach Circular

Distance: 7½ miles
Elevation Gain: 2,141 ft
Moving time: 3h 22 mins
Elapsed Time 3h 45 mins

I drove home via Abergavenny Waitrose. Lots of bargains – and an orange Panda!!

Caught up with Jean again in the evening.

Sunny Saturday was spent in the garden. I weedkillered the drive, then got going on the mowing. Honda mowed the edges and tricky spots – harder given that the “power” wasn’t kicking in and the spark plug occasionally came loose (meaning the mower wouldn’t start / run) – then did the main mow everywhere except the Solarium, and all on a No 2 (short) setting. I reckon I collected 15 full loads of grass.

First two loads of grass distributed at Mower Turn

I also looked for the source of the apples on the upper path to mower turn, and it is the “I thought it was dead” apple tree by the bonfire. There are still apples on the branches that have grown away from the quarry.

In between there was a phone call with Steffi about our upcoming Pembs weekend and Nepal trek.

Still sunny on Sunday – but decidedly cool first thing, well it is October – perfect for the Jo’s GVWC circular walk from Garway Hill. And an extra bit at the start, walking from Bagwyllydiart to Garway Hill Car Park.

Strava Map: GVWC Garway Hill Circular: Route and Stats

Distance: 8.2 miles
Elevation Gain: 1,620 ft
Moving time: 3h 06 mins
Elapsed Time 4h 11 mins

Gorgeous day, beautiful walking, lots of chat, medical rehydration at The Kilpeck Inn – plus a pick up from Phil-le-taxi.

GVWC: Garway Hill Circular: Morning Mist, looking south from Garway Hill

And Val called me en route with more Nepal updates!

Back at base, collected apples.

I spent Monday with dad and Jean, including a trip into Hereford with dad in the morning and TLC throughout. Exhausting! But good outcomes, in the end.

On the bird feeders, the woodpeckers are back and I’ve seen robins too. The nuthatch(es) have grown more confident and the blue tits and great tits are as noisy as ever. Chaffinches galore and some sparrows. We returned from holiday to find a lot of small fluffy feathers scattered all over the patio…. and a large smudge on one of the conservatory windows. I wonder what it was? And what ate it?

There are still a bunch of big butterflies flying around (Red Admirals), and some shortlived fungi sprouted on the willow tree stump, wilted the next day.

Louie’s Salvia is thriving. Can’t say the same about some of the smaller goldfish…. Sounds like it might be oxygen starvation. Time to scoop out some of the goo….

Salvia Hot Lips - thriving! — Salvia Hot Lips – thriving!

And still So Many Apples!

TV: Sex Education (finished season 4), Ghosts, (started series 5 – the last one. Sniff), Fleabag (series 1 – late to it I know).

Podcasts: The Forum, History Extra, In Our Time.

Photos: Herefordshire week 197 on Flickr.

Phil: F/E 2023-10-08.

Herefordshire Week 193: Tuesday 05 – Monday 11 September 2023

In the Pyrenees with Alfonso and Manu, finishing up our cut down Carros de Foc, then driving west and completing the Ruta de las Golondrinas, Clásica version.

Just brief notes here; for the detail you’ll have to wait for the write up – aka Into the Pyrenees with Alfonso and Manu: Photos & Notes. (Next on the list!)

Tuesday saw us complete our mini Carros de Foc trek, walking down from Refugio Amitges (2380m) to Estany St. Maurici (1912m) via the Cascada de Ratera and retreading the trail back to the car park.

Alfonso's Outline for Trekking Carros de Foc — Alfonso’s Outline for Trekking Carros de Foc

Lunch back on the sunny terrace of the Restaurant Vall d’Àneu in Esterri d’Àneu then on to Vielha for a night at Hotel Eth Pomèr (Apples, how appropriate), beers and presentation of the Team Mucho Gusto T-Shirts (plus chutney and spare toothbrushes) at REFU Birreria and dinner at Woolloomooloo.

Wednesday was transit day, driving west-ish from Vielha to Refugio de Belagua via Ainsa (mediaeval city) and Jaca (lunch, mini Magnums and a mooch around Barrabés).

The Golondrinas huts are all accessible by road, and Belagua was buzzing. We had a fab evening – receiving our Golondrinas swag, taking in the views, enjoying our private en suite room. And bottom bunks!

We set off on La Ruta de las Golondrinas on Thursday morning: driving down to the car park at Rincón de Belagua and then walking through forest and fields and forest again to Refugio de Linza. Hot.

A day of Cathedral-like beech forests, sparkling dew on spider’s webs, bracken and gorse, a stiff, sweaty climb, a picnic in the woods – all accompanied by an impossible light bulb riddle.

The Linza hut was the quietest we stayed in, there were only around 10 other people there. Very relaxing. We played Scrabble in Spanish sat at a shady picnic table before dinner.

Friday saw us cross the border into France on Ruta de las Golondrinas day 2, trekking from Refugio de Linza to Refuge de l’Abérouat. A long, hot day.

Highlights: morning shade, chamois and marmots, Collado de Petrechema, goats cheese selling berger in his ‘house of love’, another beech forest picnic, 7.2% beers!

Rach and Me at the Collado de Petrechema, looking down into France

Lowlight: 4km on toasty tarmac.

We stayed in France on Saturday as day 3 of La Ruta de las Golondrinas (which I suppose I ought to be calling La Route des Hirondelles given we’re in France) took us from Refuge de l’Abérouat to Refuge Jeandel.

The trail took us over pas de Azuns and pas del Osque – and Alfonso and Manu provided an optional extra for Rach and I, climbing up one of Les Tourelles. FAB.

Vulture viewing, on top of our peak in Les Tourelles

The Jeandel refuge and the manmade ski resort of La Pierre Saint Martin were less so.

I did get a proposal from a passing berger mind you.

Sunday saw us return into Spain as day 4 of La Ruta de las Golondrinas brought us back to Refugio de Belagua, a day after La Vuelta had passed by. En route, Pic de Arlás (2044m), quiet meadows and close up vulture views, and a bit of zig zagging over the main road in the run up to elevenses.

Late lunch at the hut then Rach and I accompanied Alfonso and Manu back down to the car park to collect the van. It’s a very steep trail down through the forests – very glad of the presence of poles and the absence of backpack.

The evening thunderstorm in the valley reached us overnight. Lots of rain, and lightning. A suitably dramatic end to our Ruta de las Golondrinas.

Monday was a day for farewells, and the end of this year’s adventures with Alfonso and Manu.

We drove back to Lourdes airport, flew back to London Stansted in the company of nuns, got the Stansted Express back to Liverpool Street, said au revoir to Rach and then headed down to Hotel Hazel for the night, and another Thai Takeaway for dinner.

TV: My Mum, Your Dad (out of the corner of my eye).

Audiobook: The Bullet that Missed – Richard Osman.

Photos: Herefordshire week 193 on Flickr.

Phil: w/e 2023-09-10.

Herefordshire Week 192: Tuesday 29 August – Monday 04 September 2023

Off Into the Pyrenees with Alfonso and Manu. Part 1: London, Lourdes and the easier half of the Carros de Foc.

Tuesday morning, R came to finish cutting the hedges and we had a look around the “Estate” for other jobs.

The Victoria Plum wedding tree that A&M got for us is laden – and last year the entire crop numbered 5. This year the weight of the plum crop has caused two of the older branches to snap. I should have checked in on it earlier.

The rest of my busy Tuesday morning featured home insurance renewal, picking all the plums I could reach, washing old bed headboards in case I could donate them at the tip, going to the tip and binning our old microwave, headboards (booo) and a box of foil, batteries and light bulbs.

And then the 13.18 HFD to PAD on the first leg of my journey Into the Pyrenees with Alfonso and Manu.

Rendezvoused with S at H’s, catching up over wine and nibbles in the back garden before ordering Takeout Thai for Tea – because in London you can, and in rural Herefordshire and Pembrokeshire you can’t.

We are at Hazel's...... — We are at Hazel’s……

Compared kit and finalised packing…. then bed.

Wednesday was travel day: Breakfast – Northern Line to Moorgate – rendezvous with Rach in Liverpool Street – Stansted Express to Stansted – Ryanair self checkin and bag drop (somehow we each had 40+kg hold baggage allowance. Go figure) – Security (surprisingly civilised) – Non-priority boarding for our (slightly delayed) flight to Lourdes.

We landed at Aéroport Tarbes Lourdes Pyrénées in a downpour and high winds. Uh oh.

Got the last seat on the Airport Shuttle Bus from the airport to Lourdes station, then Hazel navigated us to our Luxury Loft Lourdes where we settled in, unpacked and then headed out for cocktails and dinner at the lovely Le Passage.

I’m only giving an outline for the rest of the week (and next week). For the detail, you’ll have to wait for the write up – aka Into the Pyrenees with Alfonso and Manu: Photos & Notes.

Thursday saw us meet Alfonso in Lourdes, drive to Vielha and rendezvous with Manu, convoy to Esterri d’Àneu to meet up with E and to have lunch on the terrace of the lovely Restaurant Vall d’Àneu, drive to Espot and into the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park where we parked at Parking de Prat Pierró.

Then the short walk through forests and meadows to the Estany* de Sant Maurici and on to our first hut, Refugio Ernest Mallafrè – the most compact and bijou of our Carros de Foc mountain huts, and the one with the most challenging ascent / descent in / out of the platform bunks….

* Estany = Catalan for Lake, and the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park is FULL of gorgeous lakes, many of them naturalised reservoirs.

Friday was the first full day trekking the Carros de Foc, from R. Ernest Mallafrè to Refugio J.M. Blanc. Forests and flowers, mountain streams and mirror lakes, over the Coll de Monestero, the stunning first sight of R. J.M. Blanc ….

… and a beer at a picnic table on the shores of Estany Tort de Peguera.

Two speedy dinner sittings. Noisy night in our dorm. Thankfully we were on bottom bunks.

Saturday was Carros de Foc day 2, trekking from R. J.M Blanc to Refugio Colomina via Estany Negre de Peguera, the Coll de Saburó and the Pas de l’Os, and Estany Saburó, Estany de Mar and Estany Colomina.

We arrived just before the weather turned. Later arrivals came in cold and drenched.

R. Colomina was my favourite hut on this trek. Others have the glamour, the views and the sundecks, Colomnia has the ambience and the team. It also has the essential guide book for those doing the Carros de Foc, Tina en la Carros de Foc:

Tina en la Carros de Foc - the only map the professionals use — Tina en la Carros de Foc – the only map the professionals use

Sunday, Carros de Foc day 3: R. Colomina to Refugio Estany Llong.

The wet day, but we made it over the Colladata de Dellui before the rain really set in, and reached the refugio in time for a late picnic lunch inside in the warm and dry having walked through some lovely landscapes: high valleys and mountain lakes, deep valleys and long lakes, forests, bilberries, juniper.

Team Mucho Gusto: Still happy even on a wet day

A hot and sunny afternoon tempted us outside and down into the Valle de Sant Nicolau and the Aigüestortes part of the Park for a cold water paddle, riddles and pooh sticks.

Monday, Carros de Foc day 4: R. Estany Llong – Refugio Amitges.

This was the day we diverged from the standard Carros de Foc route and instead followed Franco’s Road past Estany Llong and up to the Portarró d’Espot, before dropping down towards Estany de Sant Maurici and contouring north round to El Mirador de L’Estany, lunching en route to Estany de les Obagues de Ratera and finally the long hot climb up to glamorous Refugio Amitges.

It was also the day of the 3min 30 sec dash over scree slopes and hidden gullies to the Lone Pine – that was Alfonso and Manu, obviously – from Mirador del Portarró.

And of late afternoon chanting on the shores of Estany dels Barbs – beautiful.

Too windy to enjoy the fabulous deck with views out over Estany de Sant Maurici and the valley below, and Saharan sand made the mountain views hazy. But we didn’t let that deny us beer and nibbles, or thirds of the best lentils of the whole trip. Vegetarians got a wide variety of veggie burgers on the Carros de Foc.

TV: Something at Hazel’s, possibly.

Podcasts: Forgotten! Anyway, I slept on the train to London.

Photos: Herefordshire week 192 on Flickr.

Phil: w/e 2023-09-03.

Into the Pyrenees with Alfonso & Manu: We’re back!

Time for a Post Pyrenees Blog Post!

Team Mucho Gusto had a fab time on both the Carros de Foc and La Ruta de las Golondrinas and the two routes took us to two very different parts of the Pyrenees.

Many, many memories – mostly highlights!

The gorgeous lakes everywhere in Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park, home to the Carros de Foc, the beautiful Estany de Monestero mirroring the mountains above and around, the Grecian / Roman step dam down from Estany Negre de Peguera (it really did remind me of a square amphitheatre), our first sight of Refugio J M Blanc….

…..chanting with Esther on the shores of Estany dels Barbs, playing “Who Am I?” at Colomina (Pocohontas? No, Cleopatra) and hangman too (ornitorrinco!), Tina’s essential map of the Carros de Foc, the crazy 3 minute scree (and hidden gully) run the lone pine tree, fir trees and pines, bilberries and juniper berries, tripping over on disused, dead level railway track, crossing Collada de Dellui just before the downpour, Rachel’s emergency chocolate en route to Refugio Estany Llong, cold beers and the best lentils at Refugio Amitges, not quite having the weather to fully enjoy the Refugios’ various sun decks and terraces (but we tried), surviving top bunk ascents/descents (and snorers).

A lovely evening in Vielha, with our Mucho Gusto Team T-shirts.

Mini Magnums in Jaca and getting our Golondrinas swag (yes, I am that shallow) at Belagua.

Walking through the cathedral-like beech forest as we set off on La Ruta de las Golondrinas, Manu’s riddles – and solving them (eventually), Scrabble in Spanish (and, later, in English), watching the International Space Station silently pass overhead against a backdrop of stars, marmots and chamois, and choughs, views and climbers at Collado de Petrachema….

Rach and Me at the Collado de Petrachema, and the descent down into France

… the berger‘s maison d’amour (and also his tasty goats cheese and hanging chair), picnics in beech woods, 4km of toasty tarmac, arriving ahead of schedule at Refuge de l’Abérouat and celebrating with 7.2% cold beers and lots of snacks, Pas d’Azuns and Pas de l’Osque and optional extra Les Tourelles in between, the lonely berger of Arette-La Pierre St Martin, the ugly reality of a manmade ski resort sans snow, our morning ascent of Pic d’Arlas and the final return to the Rincón de Belagua.

Although I preferred the Carros de Foc overall (and would love to do the remaining sections), Les Tourelles was my overall highlight – the buzz of getting there and back, the bearded vultures cruising past below and soaring overhead – and a fluffy front feather caught on the rock where one had landed, Alfonso and Manu doing their Professional Poses on the outcrop with sheer drops back down into the valley below.

Nothing we hadn’t done before 🙂

Thank you Alfonso, Esther and Manu, and here’s to another adventure in 2024!