Tag: Mera Peak – Amphu Lapsta Pass – Island Peak with Val Pitkethly (Nepal)

Nepal Trek Tracker

Writing my Where Next blog post for this autumn’s Makalu Base Camp trek made me realise that I should do a round up of my various Nepal treks – dates & destinations, and how they align with the various chunks of the Great Himalaya Trail. It’ll also help me answer the question “So, how many times have you been to Nepal?”.

The current answer is: 10 times, 9 treks. This year’s Makalu Base Camp trek will be Trek No. 10 in Nepal.

The vast majority of these have been with Val Pitkethly, and I’m hoping we’ll complete what’s left of the GHT in the next few years.

Trek No. Trip / Trek Trekking Route
N/A Delhi to Kathmandu (Exodus)

21 January – 06 February 2005

 No trekking but this was my first visit to Nepal and we spent time in the Terai, Chitwan and Kathmandu
1 Annapurna Circuit (Mountain Kingdoms)

02 October – 25 October 2009

19 day trek

 Besi Sahar (760m) – Khudi (790m) – Bahundanda (1320m) – Chamje (1430m) – Tal (1700m) – Timang (2750m) – Chame (2630m) – Pisang (3190m) – Manang (3500m) – Chongkor viewpoint (3750m) – Manang (3500m) – Yak Kharka (4090m) – Thorong Phedi (4490m) – Thorong High Camp View hotel (4800m) – Thorong Phedi (4490m) – Thorong La (5414m) – Muktinath (3810m) – Kagbeni (2804m) – Marpha (2670m) – Kalopani (2530m) – Tatopani (1190m) – Sikha (1980m) – Ghorepani (2775m) – Poon Hill (3190m) – Tirkhedhunga (1577m) – Nyaphul (1070m)

NP107 GHT High Route – Annapurna, Naar & Phu Region

GHT Section: Dharapani – Kagbeni
2 Three High Passes to Everest (Mountain Kingdoms)

22 October – 20 November 2011

23 day trek

 Shivalaya (1750m) – Bhandar (2200m) – Sete (2575m) – Lamjura La (3530m) – Junbesi (2700m) – Trakshindo La (3071m) – Trakshindo (2930m) – Kharikhola (2069m) – Surke (2300m) – Phakding (2640m) – Namche Bazaar (3440m) – Thame (3800m) – Lungden (4375m) – Renjo La (5340m) – Gokyo (4790m) – Gokyo Ri (5357m) – Gokyo (4790m) – Dragnak (4750m) – Cho La (5420m) – Dzongla (4850m) – Lobuche(4931m) – Kala Pattar (5545m) – Lobuche (4931m) – Kongma La (5535m) – Dingboche (4530m) – Lawishasa (3450m) – Namche Bazaar (3440m) – Phakding (2640m) – Lukla (2860m)

NP103 GHT High Route – Solu Khumbu Region

GHT Section: Thame – Chhukhung
3 Tsum Valley Trek (Val Pitkethly)

26 March – 12 April 2015

13 day trek

 Soti Khola (597m) – Khorlabesi (970m) – Jagat (1330m) – Lokpa (2240m) – Chumling (2385m) – Chumchet (~4300m) – Chhokang Paro (3030m) – Chhule (3350m) – Mu Gompa (3700m) – Chhokang Paro (3030m) – Chumling (2385m) – Philim (1570m) – Dobhan (1050m) – Lapubesi (880m) – Soti Khola (597m)

NP106 GHT High Route – Manaslu & Ganesh Himals Region

GHT Section: Machhakhola – Gamphul
4 Off and On the Beaten Track in Solukhumbu (Val Pitkethly)

15 April – 08 May 2016

19 day trek

 Dhap (2932m) – Sigane (2660m) – Jhapre (2820m) – Bhulbhule (3365m) – PK Dairy (3640m) – Pikey Peak II & Pilates Planks (4065m) – Jase Bhanjyang (3550m) – Meadow viewpoint above Lamjura La (3805m) – Taktor (2900m) – Junbesi (2700m) – Ringmo (2742m) – Trakshindo La (3071m) – Nuntala (2200m) – Jubing (1680m) – Chyokha (1826m) – Kharikhola (2069m) – Bupsa (2350m) – Kare La (2860m) – Poyen / Paiyan (2800m) – Chutok La (2945m) – Pakhepani (2737m) – Surke (2300m) – Choplung / Chheplung (2660m) – Phakding (2640m) – Pema Choling Gompa (2834m) – Monjo (2840m) – Jorsale (2830m) – Namche (3420m) – Thamo (3480m) – Thame (3800m) – Thengpo (4350m) – Thame (3800m) – Thame Teng (3900m) – Tarnga (4000m) – Maralung (4210m) – Arya (4346m) – River crossing – Ridge view acclimatisation I (4787m) – Yak kharka (4442m) – Ridge view acclimatisation II (4920m) – High camp (4846m) – Gomo (4150m) – Yak kharka II (4602m) – Viewpoint (4653m) – Yak kharka II (4602m) – Prayer scarf cairn (4520m) – Langmuche view (4380m) – Thame Teng (3900m) – Thame (3800m) – Thamo (3480m) – Khunde (3840m) – Namche (3420m) – Monjo (2800m) – Lukla (2860m)

NP103 GHT High Route – Solu Khumbu Region

GHT Section: Thame – Lumde (Lungden)
5 Dhorpatan & Dolpo Expedition (Val Pitkethly)

06 April – 08 May 2017

23 day trek

 Muna (1800m) – Lumsum (2250m) – Moreni (2275m) – Upper Moreni (2552m) – Jalja La pass & camp (3418m) – Gurjaghat (3015m) – Dhorpatan (2864m) – Pass 1 (3176m) – Chetung (3117m) – Kolabesi – Takur La / Phalgune Dhuri / Fagune Lekh (4044m) – Takur / Taktor / Thankur (3220m) – Ghustung Khola bridge (2710m) – Khaim / Hiyam Nulla (2890m) – Tatopani (2444m) – Pelma (2425m) – Guibang / Gulbang (2680m) – Dhule (3328m) – Sen Khola camp (3900m) – Panidal La / Purbang Pass (4468m) – Purbang camp (4012m) – Jang La Bhanjyang (4535m) – Upper Sahar Tara (3010m) – Tarakot (2600m) – Tarakot School camp (2498m) – Lasicap (2600m) – Musi Khola camp (2890m) – Kakkot Gaon (3358m) – Seri / Sheri (4048m) – Dukot – Yallay / Yale (~4100m) – Chang Yak Pa / Chap Chu (~ 4360m) – Chharka / Chharka Bhot / Charkabhot (4360m) – Mola Lek (4850m) – Chharka / Chharka Bhot / Charkabhot (4360m) – Naliyang Sumdo – Norbulung (4750m) – Molum Sumda (4860m) – Sangda La / Tuchela Bhanjyang / Jungben La (5563m) – Sangda Phedi (4190m) – Sangda (3710m) – “Last Pass” (4425m) [Bhima Lojum La (4460m)?] – Phalyak Pass (~4315m) – Phalyak (3175m) – “Telecom Pass” (3465m) – Jomsom (2720m)

NP109 GHT High Route – Dolpo & Mugu (East) Region

GHT Section: Chap Chu – Bhima Lojum La
6 Manaslu & Tsum (Val Pitkethly)

31 October – 29 November 2018

23 day trek

 Sotikhola (597m) – Lapubesi (880m) – Yaruphant (1170m) – Chisapani (1620m) – Chumling (2385m) – Chhokang Paro (3030m) – Chule (3350m) – Mu Gompa (3700m) – Chhokang Paro (3030m) – Gumba Lungdung / Gompa Lungdang (3200m) – Ripchet (2470m) – Deng (1870m) – Prok (2397m) – Lihi (2900m) – Hinang Gompa (3200m) – Hinang Glacier (3700m) – Hinang Gompa (3200m) – Sama Gaon (3500m) – Punggyen Gompa (3870m) – Sama Gaon (3500m) – Samdo (3860m) – Yak Kharka above Samdo (4400m) – “Samdo Ri” (5150m) – Samdo (3860m) – Dharmasala (4460m) – Larkya La pass (5135m) – Bhimtang (3720m) – Tilche (2300m) – Chamje (1430m)

NP106 GHT High Route – Manaslu & Ganesh Himals Region

GHT Section: Machhakhola – Dharapani
7 Mera Peak – Amphu Lapsta Pass – Island Peak (Val Pitkethly)

30 October – 29 November 2019

24 day trek

 Phaplu (2500m) – Takshindo (2930m) – Kharikhola (2040m) – Panggom (2850m) – Najingdingma (2730m) – Chalem Kharka (3250m) – Khola Kharka / Chanbu Kharka (4200m) – Kothe (3600m) – Thangnak (4350m) – Cairns above Thangnak (5025m) – Thangnak (4350m) – Khare (5000m) – Above Khare (c. 5400m) – Khare (5000m) – Mera La (5415m) – Mera La camp (5350m) – Mera Peak High Camp (5800m) – Mera Peak (Mera Central, 6461m) – Kongma Dingma (4850m) – Seto Pokhari (5035m) – Amphu Lapsta Base Camp, South (c. 5600m) – Amphu Lapsta (5780m) – Imja Khola camp (c. 5000m) – Island Peak Base Camp (5100m) – Chukhung (4730m) – Phortse (3840m) – Monjo (2840m) – Pakhepani (2710m) – Nuntala (2440m) – Takshindo (2930m)

NP103 GHT High Route – Solu Khumbu Region

GHT Section: Amphu Labsta Base Camp, South – Dingboche
8 Manaslu & Nar Phu (Val Pitkethly)

25 October – 19 November 2022

18 day trek

 Manaslu Circuit: Machhakhola (930m) – Salleri (1360m) – Deng (1870m) – Prok (2397m) – Hinang Gompa (3200m) – Sama Gaon (3500m) – Punggyen Gompa (3870m) – Sama Gaon (3500m) – Samdo (3860m) – Above Samdo (4760m) – Samdo (3860m) – Dharmasala (4460m) – Larkya La pass (5106m) – Bhimtang (3720m) – Tilche (2300m)
Nar Phu: Koto (2620m) – Chhauchha (~2850m) – Upper Chyakhu (3800m) – Phu (4080m) – Nar (4110m) – Kang La Pass (5306m) – Ghyaru (3730m) – Lower Pisang (3250m)NP106 GHT High Route – Manaslu & Ganesh Himals Region & NP107 GHT High Route – Annapurna, Naar & Phu RegionGHT Section: Machhakhola – Dharapani
9 Kanchenjunga & Lumba Sumba (Mingmi Sherpa via Val Pitkethly)

25 October – 01 December 2023

25 day trek

 Sekathum (1660m) – Amjilossa (2400m) – Gyabla (2730m) – Ghunsa (3430m) – “Prayer flag deurali” (4000m) – Ghunsa (3430m) – Khambachen (4095m) – Jannu Shrine (4400m) – Kambachen (4095m) – Lhonak (4761m) – Kanchenjunga North Base Camp / Pangpema (5142m) – Lhonak (4761m) – Kambachen (4095m) – Ghunsa (3430m) – Chauri Kharka / Nango La camp (4160m) – Nango La (4776m) – Langjong Kharka camp (3734m) – Olangchungola (3208m) – Sanjung camp (4012m) – Lumba Sumba Pass camp / East High Camp (4646m) – Lumba Sumba Pass (5139m) – Yak Kharka camp / West High Camp (4480m) – Thudam (3556m) – Yak Kharka camp (2750m) – Chyamtang (2250m) – Hongon (2445m) – Hatiya (1585m) – Gola (1128m) – Hedanga Ghadi (1180m) – Num (1567m)

NP101 GHT High Route – Kanchenjunga Region & NP102 GHT High Route – Makalu Region

GHT Section: Kanchenjunga Base Camp (North) – Hongon
10 Makalu Base Camp (Jagged Globe)

Autumn 2024

16 day trek

 Pending

NP102 GHT High Route – Makalu Region

GHT Resources

Robin Boustead’s GHT Great Himalaya Trail 2022 GHT Maps Nepal Flickr Album has low res copies of the key maps published in December 2022 by the Himalayan Map House:

    • NP101 GHT High Route – Kanchenjunga Region
    • NP102 GHT High Route – Makalu Region
    • NP103 GHT High Route – Solu Khumbu Region
    • NP104 GHT High Route – The Rolwaling
    • NP105 GHT High Route – Langtang & Helambu
    • NP106 GHT High Route – Manaslu & Ganesh Himals Region
    • NP107 GHT High Route – Annapurna, Naar & Phu Region
    • NP108 GHT High Route – Mustang
    • NP 109 GHT High Route – Dolpo & Mugu – East
    • NP 109 GHT High Route – Dolpo & Mugu – West
    • NP 110 GHT High Route – Far West – East
    • NP 110 GHT High Route – Far West – West

Robin Boustead is also behind the Great Himalaya Trail website – https://www.greathimalayatrail.com/ – which has more resources and information, and is better than it looks with all those ads…..

 

Mera Peak – Amphu Lapsta Pass – Island Peak: Photos & Notes

I wrote up my first(ish) impressions of last November’s four week trek-with-ascents in my Mera Peak – Amphu Lapsta Pass – Island Peak: We’re back blogpost.

This blogpost is my day by day account, with links to each day’s photos, of my trek with Steffi, Nicola, Ernst, Stuart and Paul, led by Val Pitkethly and Ang Chhering. Our trip was 31 days in total, with 26 days “on trek” including the driving from/to KTM.

Before we start, here’s the mark up of our route that Val added to my map – click through to zoom in on the detail in the original, on Flickr:

Mera Peak – Amphu Lapsta Pass – Island Peak: Our route
Mera Peak – Amphu Lapsta Pass – Island Peak: Our route

Scroll down to the end for details of which sections of Günter Seyfferth’s invaluable Die Berge des Himalaya website I’ve used in this write up and when identifying some of the mountain views in my photos.

If you just want to take a look at my photos you’ll find them in my Nepal, November 2019 – Mera Peak, Amphu Lapsta, Island Peak Flickr album. I’ve included some of Nicola’s too.

Wednesday, 30 October 2019: London – Dubai (Photos)

Steffi and I flew overnight from London Stansted to Dubai on Emirates EK068, landing in Dubai just after 7am on Thursday morning.

Thursday, 31 October 2019: Dubai (Photos)

We were even less enthusiastic about our unwanted extra day in Dubai after a fairly tortuous transfer to the hotel and check in experience – might as well not have bothered booking a room for the night before. But, ever keen to make the most of a bad lot, we had a couple of hours power napping then we took the hotel shuttle bus to The Dubai Mall to spend the afternoon in air con comfort. Coffee; a late lunch at the excellent, tucked out of sight, food court; dancing fountains and people watching all featured. As did lots of strolling, always slightly lost, around this multi-storeyed citadel of consumerism.

A dip in the rooftop pool preceded the You Booked Direct free aperitif accompanied by al fresco Waitrose nibbles – our attempts to track down a supermarket in The Dubai Mall having proved futile.

Overnight: Premier Inn, Dubai International Airport.

Friday, 01 November 2019: Dubai – Kathmandu (Photos)

Much more efficient hotel transfer to Dubai terminal 2 where we rendezvoused with Nicola for our 4 hour FlyDubai flight (EK2155 / FZ0575) to Kathmandu.

Endured an hour or so queue at immigration – hot and stuffy, and exacerbated by the arrival of 3 jumbo-worth of tourists – followed by the inevitable, domino effect, queue to get through the security scanners. At least, after all that, we didn’t have to wait for our luggage. Just find it…

A relief to spot Mingmi waiting for us, and a relatively quick jeep ride to the Marshyangdi.

Great to see Val waiting for us in reception. Rooms sorted – newly refurbished ones, LOVELY – speedy unpack and a cuppa, and down the road for dinner at the good old Thakali Bhanchha Ghar.

Overnight: Hotel Marshyangdi, Thamel.

Saturday, 02 November 2019: Kathmandu (Photos)

A rare extra day in KTM ahead of the trek, which gave us a bit more time to get over jet lag (just don’t mention the cooing PIGEONS!), a leisurely Marshyangdi buffet breakfast, and to hang out with Ernst!

Spent the morning in Val’s tender mercies – kit check, crampon fitting and shopping, settling up and changing trek spends into NPR. Plus packing… always a challenge. Thankfully big boots, crampons and ice axes were allowed into separate kit bags, but cramming the remaining 6000m gear into our usual kit bags was tricky. Extra layers, puffier down jackets etc.

Paul and Stuart arrived – first impressions: They’re GIANTS! Lovely men, both of them.

The afternoon was spent mainly faffing. Steffi, Nicola, Ernst and I headed out for coffee and cake in the Hotel Mandap’s garden bakery/cafe.

Early dinner back at Thakali Bhanchha Ghar. Early night. Early start tomorrow.

Overnight: Hotel Marshyangdi, Thamel.

Sunday, 03 November 2019: Kathmandu – Phaplu (Photos)

Trek Day 1

Route: Drive Kathmandu / काठमाडौं to Phaplu / फाप्लु (2500m) (9-10 hours).

Overnight: Numbur Guest House.

So, not really trekking. But getting closer to the start, and avoiding an internal flight and the attendant uncertainties / risks. Lunch in Okhaldhunga / ओखलढुङ्गा (1561m).

Monday, 04 November 2019: Phaplu (2500m) – Takshindo (2930m) – Kharikhola (2040m) (Photos)

Trek Day 2

Route: Drive from Phaplu / फाप्लु (2500m) to Takshindo / टाक्सिन्धु (2930m) via Ringmo / Rungmu / रिङमो and the Trakshingdo La / Takshingdo La / Takshindo La / Trakshindo La (3071m).

Trek to Kharikhola / Kharikola / खरीखोला (2040m) via Nuntala / Nunthala / नुनथला (2440m), Pipli Papli (lunch), Chhirdi (1500m) / Dudh Kosi river / दुध कोसी and Juving / Jubing / जुबिङ (1670m).

Overnight: Namaste Lodge / Snowland Cabins.

Tuesday, 05 November 2019: Kharikhola (2040m) – Panggom (2850m) (Photos)

Trek Day 3

Route: Trek to Pangkongma / Pangom / Panggom / पन्गोम (2850m). Visit Gompa – Tashi Sangag Chholing monastery.

Camp: Hotel Panggom Inn.

Wednesday, 06 November 2019: Panggom (2850m) – Najingdingma (2730m) (Photos)

Trek Day 4

Route: Trek to Najing / Najingdingma (2730m) via Pangkongma La / Panggom La (3174m), Sibuje / Chatuk / सिबुजे (2770m), Inkhu Khola / Hinku Khola river (2028m).

Lunch at Mera Peak Lodge & Restaurant, Waku 4, Inkhu River / Mapya Dudhkoshi R.M.-7, Sibuje, down at the Inkhu Khola bridge.

Camp: Mera Hotel & Restaurant camp.

Thursday, 07 November 2019: Najingdingma (2730m) – Chalem Kharka (3250m) (Photos)

Trek Day 5

Route: Trek to Chholem / Chalem Kharka (3250m) via Surke La / Surkie La / Spiki La / Charakot Pass (3085m) and Phokte (lunch).

Camp: Himalayan Lodge camp.

Friday, 08 November 2019: Chalem Kharka (3250m) – Khola Kharka / Chanbu Kharka (4200m) (Photos)

Trek Day 6

Route: Trek to Khola Kharka / Chanbu Kharka (4200m) via Pokta La (c. 4500m), Panch Pokhari La (c. 4600m) and the Panch Pokhari / Five Lakes (4336m).

Camp: New Mera Lodge camp.

Saturday, 09 November 2019: Khola Kharka / Chanbu Kharka (4200m) – Kothe (3600m) (Photos)

Trek Day 7

Route: Trek to Gotay / Khote / Kote / Kothe (3600m)

High trail above the Hinku Khola / Inkhu Khola, dropping down through the Mojang Forest to lunch at the bridge over the Mojang Khola.

Camp: Sherpa Hotel & Lodge camp.

Sunday, 10 November 2019: Kothe (3600m) – Thangnak (4350m) (Photos)

Trek Day 8

Route: Trek up the Hinku Khola valley to Tagnag / Thangnag / Tangnag / Thangnak (4350m). Lunch at Gondishung / Godishung Gompa (4161m).

Camp: Pemba Dickie’s Tagnag Lodge camp.

Monday, 11 November 2019: Thangnak (4350m) (Photos)

Trek Day 9

Route: Acclimatisation day at Tagnag / Thangnag (4350m).

Hike up towards the moraines below Kusum Kanguru to the cairns at 5025m.

Camp: Pemba Dickie’s Tagnag Lodge camp.

Tuesday, 12 November 2019: Thangnak (4350m) – Khare (5000m) (Photos)

Trek Day 10

Route: Trek to Khare / खरे (5000m), via Dig Kharka.

Camp: Pemba Dickie’s Khare Lodge camp.

Wednesday, 13 November 2019: Khare (5000m) (Photos)

Trek Day 11

Route: Acclimatisation day and skills training, Khare / खरे (5000m).

Morning: Acclimatisation hike above the Hinku Shar / Khare Glacier system to c. 5400m.

Afternoon: Training with crampons and ropes (jumar up, karabiner across, abseil down).

Camp: Pemba Dickie’s Khare Lodge camp.

Thursday, 14 November 2019: Khare (5000m) – Mera La (5415m) – Mera La camp (5350m) (Photos)

Trek Day 12

Route: Trek over Mera moraine to crampon point, onto glacier/snow and climb snow slopes to the Mera La (5415m). Drop down off glacier to Mera La camp (5350m).

Crossing from the West to the East side of Mera La takes you from the Hinku Valley and into the Hongu Valley.

Camp: Mera La camp.

Friday, 15 November 2019: Mera La camp (5350m) – Mera Peak High Camp (5800m) (Photos)

Trek Day 13

Route: Climb easy snow slopes to Mera Peak High Camp (5800m).

Camp: Mera Peak High Camp.

Saturday, 16 November 2019: Mera Peak High Camp (5800m) – Mera Peak (Mera Central, 6461m) – Kongma Dingma (4850m) (Photos)

Trek Day 14 – Summit Day

Route: Mera Peak High Camp (5800m) – Mera Peak (Mera Central, 6461m) – Mera La (5415m) – Kongma Dingma (4850m)

Described as “Climb easy-angled snow slopes and short steeper section to summit Mera Peak.” Incredibly hard work at this altitude – each step felt like it was the last one I could take. But, roped up with Chhering and Nicola, I did it.

Mera Peak / मीरा पीक has multiple summits – we did Mera Central (6461m). As always, Günter Seyfferth’s Die Berge des Himalaya (The mountains of Himalaya) is invaluable for its annotated photos and maps. Here’s his page on Mera Peak.

Then a long descent to Mera La (5415m) and off the glacier down by our previous camp for a really, really long descent into the Hongu Valley to camp at Kongma Dingma / Kongme Dingma (4850m).

A long day: Wake up call / bed tea at 2.30am, into KD around 4pm. Bed around 7pm?

A fantastic day.

Camp: Kongma Dingma camp.

Sunday, 17 November 2019: Kongma Dingma (4850m) (Photos)

Trek Day 15

Route: Rest day Kongma Dingma / Kongme Dingma (4850m).

Camp: Kongma Dingma camp.

Monday, 18 November 2019: Kongma Dingma (4850m) – Seto Pokhari (5035m) (Photos)

Trek Day 16

Route: Trek to Seto Pokhari (5035m).

Seto Pokhari means White Lake, appropriate given it is frozen.

Camp: Seto Pokhari camp.

Tuesday, 19 November 2019: Seto Pokhari (5035m) – Amphu Lapsta Base Camp, South (c. 5600m) (Photos)

Trek Day 17

Route: Trek north up the Hongu Valley before turning north west off the main glaciated valley and climbing to lunch at Panch Pokhari. Big Baruntse views. Trek to Amphu Lapsta / Amphu Lapste / Amphu Labtsa / Amphu Lapcha / Amphu Labcha Base Camp (South) (c. 5600m).

Camp: Amphu Lapsta Base Camp (South).

Wednesday, 20 November 2019: Amphu Lapsta Base Camp, South (c. 5600m) – Amphu Lapsta (5780m) – Imja Khola camp (c. 5000m) (Photos)

Trek Day 18

Route: Cross Amphu Lapsta / Amphu Lapste / Amphu Labtsa / Amphu Lapcha / Amphu Labcha (5780m). Descend to Imja Khola camp (c. 5000m).

Crossing the pass entailed crunching over moraine, then rope and crampons to jumar up the glacier snow slopes to the pass.

On the Imja Khola side, a steep, steep descent clipped onto a roped route, with a short abseiling section over large rock outcrop.

Once down in the bowl of the Ambulapcha glacial valley, it was an easy but long trek over sand then turf towards Imja Tsho’s southern moraine wall before heading west to reach camp next to the Imja Khola. Another long day.

Camp: Imja Khola camp.

Thursday, 21 November 2019: Imja Khola camp (c. 5000m) – Island Peak Base Camp (5100m) (Photos)

Trek Day 19

Route: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp (5100m)

Ernst was helicoptered down to the hospital at Khunde, and the rest of us crossed the Imja Khola and the glacier’s moraine debris and did the gentle stroll over up the other side of the Imja Tsho to get to Island Peak Base Camp. Busy! After lunch, Nicola and I settled in to camp and to prep for tomorrow’s ascent, Steffi and Stuart opting to head back down to Chukhung (4730m) for a couple of rest days.

Camp: Island Peak Base Camp.

Friday, 22 November 2019: Island Peak Base Camp (5100m) – Chukhung (4730m) (Photos)

Trek Day 20

Route: Climb Island Peak – if you’re Nicola and Chhering! I started, but turned back after 45 mins or so – I just didn’t have any energy. Trek to Chukhung (4730m). Tea and apple cake with Steffi and Stuart.

Camp: Chukhung Cafe & Snooker House camp.

Saturday, 23 November 2019: Chukhung (4730m) – Phortse (3840m) (Photos)

Trek Day 21

Route: Trek to Phortse / फोर्छे (3840m) via Dingboche / दिङबोचे (4410m), Shomare (4136m) (lunch) and Pangboche / पाङबोचे (4030m) and Pangboche Gompa.

Overnight: Namaste Lodge.

Sunday, 24 November 2019: Phortse (3840m) – Monjo (2840m) (Photos)

Trek Day 22

Route: Monjo / Monzo / Manjo / मान्जो (2840m) via Dudh Koshi river (bridge), Phortse Thanga (3680m), Mong La (3975m), Kyangjungma / Kyangjuma / Kyanjuma (3620m) and Namche Bazaar / नाम्चे बजार (3440m, lunch), Larcha Dovan (2935m) and Sagarmatha National Park Entry, Jorsalle / जोरसल्ले.

Our last night together with the full crew – so it was time to party!

Overnight: Monjo Guest House Eco-Lodge.

Monday, 25 November 2019: Monjo (2840m) – Pakhepani (2710m) (Photos)

Trek Day 23

Route: Trek to Pakhepani (2710m) via Benkar / बेन्कार, Phakding (2639m), Choplung / Chheplung / Cheplung / छेप्लुङ् (2660m, lunch) and Surke / Surkhe / सुर्के (2290m).

We said farewell to Ernst, Chhering and Budi before we left Monjo, and to Stuart and Tenzi after lunch in Chheplung. Ernst had extra time to take its easy for a few more days, and Stuart and Tenzi were braving the Lukla-KTM flight. Steffi and I kept our fingers crossed for good weather for them all.

Overnight: Khumbu View Lodge.

Tuesday, 26 November 2019: Pakhepani (2710m) – Nuntala (2440m) (Photos)

Trek Day 24

Route: Trek to Nuntala / Nunthala / नुनथला (2440m) via Chutok La (2775m), Paiyan / Puiya / Paiya / Puiyan / Poyan / Poyen / पैया (2770m), Khari La / Kare La / Kari La (2840m), Bupsa (2360m), Kharikhola / Kharikola / खरीखोला (2040m, lunch), Jubing / Juving / जुभिङ (1670m) and Chhirdi (1500m) / Dudh Kosi river / दुध कोसी.

We said farewell to Val and Despier before we left Pakhepani. A long day – we were walking in the dark for the last hour.

Overnight: Shangrila Guest House.

Wednesday, 27 November 2019: Nuntala (2440m) – Takshindo (2930m) – Khurkot (Photos)

Trek Day 25

Route: Trek to Takshindo / टाक्सिन्धु (2930m).

Drive to Phaplu / फाप्लु (2500m) via the Trakshingdo La / Takshingdo La / Takshindo La / Trakshindo La (3071m) and Ringmo / Rungmu / रिङमो.

Drive to Khurkot / खुर्कोट via Okhaldhunga / ओखलढुङ्गा जिल्ला

Overnight: “Khurkot Roadside Motel”.

Thursday, 28 November 2019: Khurkot – Kathmandu (Photos)

Trek Day 26

Route: Drive to Kathmandu / काठमाडौं.

CLEAN CLOTHES.

HAIR WASH.

We had the traditional last night feast at The Mandap, hosted by Tenzi. A bit strange to be without Val and Chhering.

Overnight: Hotel Marshyangdi, Thamel.

Friday, 29 November 2019: Kathmandu – London (No photos)

Route: Fly Kathmandu – Doha – London

Qatar Airways QR 0653: KTM 11:25 – DOH 14:35 (5h 55m), then Qatar Airways QR 0015: DOH 15:50 – LHR 20:25 (7h 35m). Steffi and I said our farewells at the airport, then I took the tube home.

Overnight: Home!

Resources

I cannot recommend highly enough Günter Seyfferth’s Die Berge des Himalaya (The mountains of Himalaya) website with its annotated maps and photos. The following are the pages covering key elements of our route.

The Hinku Valley including Kothe, Thangnak and Khare

Mera La and Mera Peak, plus upper sections of the Hinku and Hongu valleys

Hongu Valley and Amphu Lapsta

  • Makalu Region – Kangshug, Barun, Hongu Valley: G. The Hongu Khola Valley (Hunku Khola) (includes Baruntse and Amphu Lapsta)
  • Amphu Labsta pass and in particular photos:
    • (7) View from Amphu Labtsa north to east
    • (11) Looking south from Amphu Labtsa into the western area of ​​the upper Hunku Valley with Chamlang and Peak 41
    • (10) View from Amphu Labtsa to the southeast with Westcol and Chamlang
    • (14) View from Amphu Labtsa to west-southwest with Kangtega and Ama Dablam

Island Peak and the Imja Khola and Dudh Kosi valleys from Chukhung to Namche

Not surprisingly, having just spent a chunk of time revisiting this trek, I am now desperate to get back to the mountains…. I doubt it will be this year, but Kanchenjunga south and north base camps with possible extension to exit via the Wolungchu valley is TOP of my list now.

Mera Peak – Amphu Lapsta Pass – Island Peak: We are back!

A great trip.

I made it to the top of Mera Peak (6476m) and Steffi got to 6300m. Magic views, as Charles promised.

Stuart, Chhering, Nicola and me, Mera Peak
Stuart, Chhering, Nicola and me, Mera Peak
Looking north from Mera Peak
Looking north from Mera Peak

The Amphu Lapsta pass was hard – clipping/unclipping on fixed lines, abseiling / lowered over a huge rock outcrop – with lots of the snow/glacier had gone on both sides, making it harder. A sheer drop down from the precipitous pass (5845m) down into the valley, 600m below.

Val, Amphu Lapsta Pass
Val, Amphu Lapsta Pass
Steffi and Bhudi, Amphu Lapsta Pass ascent
Steffi and Bhudi, Amphu Lapsta Pass ascent

Too tired to attempt Island Peak. Also that’s become far more technical with snow / ice loss too.

BIG congrats to Nicola for managing all three.

It was the hardest trip I’ve done – eight days / nights over 5000m, including Mera Peak High Camp 5800m and Amphu Lapsta Base Camp 5600m. Walking out was 4 l-o-n-g days too. One evening we ended up doing the last hour in the dark, with head torches. Uphill, OF COURSE!!!

Very, very pleased I was able to get to the top of Mera, but Amphu Lapsta was a whole heap more complicated than anyone anticipated. I loved working with crampons, ice axes and ropes. Could do with more practice abseiling mind you!

Map with our anticlockwise route from Phaplu and back
Map with our anticlockwise route from Phaplu and back

I shall be making good use of Günter Seyfferth’s excellent website – Die Berge des Himalaya (The mountains of Himalaya) – to identify the mountains we could see on our Mera and Amphu Lapsta days.

Mera Peak – Amphu Lapsta Pass – Imja Tse: Final Update

I have somewhat belatedly realised that I’ve not actually posted up details of Val’s planned route for this year’s trek encompassing Mera Peak – Amphu Lapsta Pass – Imja Tse / Island Peak.

(Am I allowed to call it A Climb? An Expedition? It feels more than a simple trek, and definitely represents a step up from previous trips. About 800m up from my previous high point – the Drölma La on the Mt Kailash Kora. And that didn’t require anything more than a daypack for 4 days. But I digress.)

Here’s a summary of the itinerary we got from Val back in January. I’m not sure how it will spread out over the 27 days we have between leaving Kathmandu for Paphlu and returning to Kathmandu. The Trakshindo to Kharikhola section is familiar from 2011 and 2016, as is Chukhung to Namche (2011), and Namche to Lukla (both trips).

  • Drive to to Paphlu (2500m) (9-10 hours). If we arrive early enough, trek to Trakshindo, otherwise stay in Phaplu.
  • Trek to Kharikhola (2069m) or Nuntala (2200m) depending on where we camp previous night, via the Trakshindo La pass (3071m) and we will drop some solar lights at one of the communities on the way.
  • Trek to Pangkongma / Pangom (2850m) little settlement above Kharikhola where we camp near the Gompa.
  • Depending on how everyone is doing I have 2 routes for days 5 & 6:
    Option A
    – Trek to Ning So (2850m) via Pangkongma La (3174m), steep descent to the village of Sibuje (2770 m) then undulating trail through the forested river valley to Ning So (2850m).
    – Trek to ‘Jungle Camp’ (3160m) via a tea house at 3280 m and high point of the day at 3350 m. Steep descent back to the river. After lunch undulations through the forest with some steep sections of trail to ‘Jungle Camp’ (3160m).
    Option B: Trek via Nashing Dingma, Chlum Kharak and Chumbu Kharaka
  • Trek to Gotay (3600m) following the Hinku Khola
  • Trek to Tagnag / Thangnag (4350m) beside the Hinku River to the small gompa at Gondishung. From the gompa it is an hour’s walk over moraines to the Yak herders settlement of Tagnag.
  • Acclimatisation day at Tagnag / Thangnag. Day trip up towards the moraines below Kusum Kanguru (6367 m). Practise with ropes and harnesses and crampons after lunch.
  • Trek beside the Dig Glacier to Khare (5000m).
  • Acclimatisation day and skills training, with more practice techniques and safety procedures to be used on our climbs.
  • Climb to the Mera La (5415m). Overnight at Val’s Mera La camp.
  • Climb easy snow slopes on Mera Peak to a high camp (5800m).
  • Climb easy-angled snow slopes and short steeper section to Mera Peak central summit (6476m) or north summit. Long descent to Mera La (5415m) and on down to Khare (5000m).
  • We have some spare days and depending on weather we may take a day after the climb resting before heading up the Hongu Valley.
  • We spend the next few days trekking up the Hongu Valley via a few camps (1) one very close to Chamlung BC (2) another one close to Baruntse and (3) a further one situated below Amphu Lapsta.
  • Cross Amphu Lapsta and descend into the Imjatse valley opposite Imja Tse / Island Peak. Camp Island Peak BC.
  • Climb Imja Tse / Island Peak (6183m) from BC or move up to HC and climb from there.
  • Trek Island Peak BC to Lukla via Chukung / Chukhung (4730m), Dingboche (4410m), Kyangjungma and Namche (3440m), Monjo / Manjo (2835m) over 3 long days.
  • Walk from Lukla to roadhead.
  • Drive from roadhead to Kathmandu.

Severe gales (up to 95 km /hr) were forecast for Mera Peak last week and this…. Not quite so fierce on Imja Tse (Island Peak).

Mera Peak (6476m) weather forecast
Mera Peak (6476m) weather forecast

In other news, I bought my travel insurance from the BMC (Alpine & Ski cover) last Tuesday and my La Sportiva G2 SM mountaineering boots plus ski goggles, fleece balaclava and hand/foot warmers arrived on Wednesday. Excellent service from Expedition Kit Hire and FedEx.

Packed today. Buying Dirhams tomorrow morning and going out for dinner at the Saravana Bhavan tomorrow evening.

All set!

Mera Peak – Amphu Lapsta Pass – Imja Tse: Flight Change & Training Weekend

It feels like our flights for this year’s big trip are cursed.

I got a text on Wednesday from GoToGate, who we booked our new flights with back in April when Jet suspended their flight operations, advising that there had been a change to our flight schedule and to check my email for details.

Now, normally when I get these emails, the flights have moved by a matter of minutes, occasionally an hour or two.

Not so this time. Our outbound flight to Dubai has been cancelled and we’ve been offered the same flight 24 hours earlier. Not only that, but our onward flight from DXB to KTM had been moved from early morning to midday, arriving into KTM at 6pm. Thanks Emirates. Our choices were to accept the new flights and sort out accommodation in Dubai at our own cost, or cancel one or both parts of our journey and book our own alternatives, although a refund of the cancelled flights wasn’t 100% certain.

Not a great choice really, and both Steffi and I were up to our eyeballs with work and family stuff.

Looking for positives, although leaving on the Wednesday rather than the Thursday would be a pain, at least it was doable for us both. I’ve been able to juggle my working days (although that does mean I lose the Monday I had set aside to pack, and the weekend before we go I’ll be in Northern Ireland for a birthday), and Steffi had booked the whole week off.

My initial thought was to take the main flight and book an onwards flight for the Thursday and ask Val to sort out an extra night’s accommodation in KTM. That way at least we’d be in KTM. I was influenced by the expectation that hotels in Dubai would be ex.pen.sive – Burj Khalifa, Jumeriah et al. But, when I googled Hotels Dubai International Airport I was pleasantly surprised, quickly homing in on the presence of the ever-reliable Premier Inn. Checking availability, prices and location on their website, I realised that staying in Dubai would be doable without breaking the bank, and may well come in cheaper than cancelling our DXB-KTM flight and booking a new one.

So that’s what we decided to do: take the alternative flights offered by Emirates, and book 2 nights in Dubai International Airport Premier Inn – 2 nights meaning we can get a room as soon as we’ve landed and cleared immigration and baggage collection (2 minor minuses with staying in Dubai is that we have to do that, which is a pain), worth it given we land at 7.10am and Premier Inn checkin is 2pm. They provide free transfers between the airport and the hotel, and it’s only 10-15 min journey.

But inevitably it was not smooth sailing putting this plan into action.

The GoToGate email instructions were to respond to the email confirming our course of action within 6 days. By the time Steffi and I had conferred it was Thursday. No problem, I emailed them with our decision then and there. Five days left to go.

Thursday I heard nothing,

Friday, nothing – and Phil and I headed north to spend the weekend in Leith with Sue. Checking my junk mail every 30 mins brought no joy and the stress began to build. What if GTG were having trouble getting seats on the alternative flights? What if we wouldn’t be able to get to KTM in time for the trek? Had I lost Steffi and me another £60 each, having already booked the hotel on Thursday….. What if they hadn’t actually received my email at all?

So after a terrible night’s sleep Fri/Sat I decided I had to call GTG – assuming I could find a number, and even if that meant sitting on hold for hours.

I should be more positive. The phone number was easy to find, was a “normal” rather than premium rate number, and within a minute or so of navigating the automated call menu I was speaking with a very calm and reassuring lady. She could see my email, and confirmed they’d rebook us on the offered flights – there was no risk that we’d be left in limbo. PHEW.

Her confirmation email came straight after the call, and although it took a few days to get the updated confirmation PDF from GTG, once we were home I was able to log into the booking and see we were on the new flights. From there to the Emirates site to download our boarding passes and to book new seats – no need! We’d got the same ones as I’d booked for the original flights. Neither planes look very busy at all, which may explain the cancellation…. I’d half wondered if the main flight cancellation might be Brexit related.

Let’s hope that’s it for the flight stress.

(OK – we’ve still got Yukla in the schedule, but that’s Val’s responsibility.)

(And annoyed that we paid more for a flight without the inconvenience of a layover, and have ended up with one.)

So now I can start to ponder how we might spend our day in Dubai. It’s been a long time since my one and only visit, but Janette’s been recently and tells me the metro makes it easy to get around, plus the hotel has a pool and plenty of food places nearby, and having booked direct we get 2-for-1 deals, which helps. One good thing about our new DXB-KTM flight is that we don’t have to get up at the crack of dawn to get to the airport for checkin.

I’ve bought new Stansted Express tickets and Steffi’s changed her train to arrive on the Tuesday.

Let’s hope that’s it for travel plan changes.

In the meantime I’ve been buying USD daily via the ever reliable Thomas Exchange Global to try to even out exchange rate fluctuations (thank you Brexit; thank you Trump), and I’m writing this as my Virgin Train heads north to Penrith for a weekend’s walking and training with Val; Steffi and Nicola are coming too so that we can all get some practice in using ropes, harnesses, crampons and scrambling. We’ve also got a prelim kit check and I am sure we’ll be fine tuning our “getting the gear” plan, although I’m hoping Steffi and I will still be OK to hire kit from Val’s KTM contacts, to avoid having to lug it there and back. Let’s hope my birthday daypack passes muster.

Things left to do: buy Alpine & Ski Insurance from BMC. Pack. Buy UAE dirhams.

And in the background, at work David dropped his bombshell.

Post Lakes Training Weekend Update

  • We’re walking rather than flying from Lukla. GREAT!
  • Nicola’s on the same DXB-KTM flight. EXTRA GREAT!
  • The getting the gear plan is even less clear than it was before. And the trip cost has crept up again. NOT GREAT.

Training was fun.

Training for Mera Peak - Amphu Lapsta - Island Peak
Training for Mera Peak – Amphu Lapsta – Island Peak: Me, Steffi & Nicola at Near Howe