On Friday, Hazel and I followed our usual routine for the our journey west – taking the mid-afternoon train to Newport where we rendezvoused with Dave for the drive on to Steffi’s.
As is traditional, we prepared for Saturday’s stroll along the Pembroke Coast Path with a Friday night feast of Steffi-curries – and a snifter of whiskey to see us on our way to Newgale for a night in the ‘van. We slept well.
Saturday dawned sunny, and after a leisurely breakfast we set off, Dave at the wheel, destination: the National Trust car park at Stackpole Quay for a circular(ish) walk, combining the Pembroke Coast Path with the National Trust Stackpole Estate.
From Stackpole Quay we walked along the coastal path to Barafundle‘s beautiful beach and flower-filled woods, onwards to Stackpole Head for the nesting seabirds, rock windows and the eponymous stacks masquerading as wizard hats and seals. Next up Broadhaven South – another expanse of golden sands – although by now the sun had given way to sea mist, making for pleasant walking but gloomy-looking photos.
Crossing the Castlemartin firing range we arrived at the tiny chapel of St Govan’s, and then looped back towards Broadhaven turning off into the sand dunes and overgrowth to make our way to Bosherston Lakes. Lilies galore; people too. A lone swan gliding through the lily beds.
Emerging into the NT Car Park at Bosherston, we homed in on the holy grail of Mrs Weston’s Tea Shop, AKA (if all you have to go on are the signs) Ye Olde Worlde Cafe. If I tell you that panini and filter coffee are considered new-fangled additions to the menu, you’ll appreciate that the name is apt. Proper big tea pot of tea, with a large ceramic jug of hot water for topping up (itself topped up with alacrity), “two beans and cheese on toast” came just as hoped – not beans with a sprinkling of grated cheddar, but 1xbeans on toast and 1xcheese on toast. Plus an array of traditional condiments: salad cream, Branston pickle, English mustard. TAY-STEE.
We completed our loop back to Stackpole Quay across and alongside Bosherston Lakes and the Stackpole Deer Park, which we felt justified another cup of tea / coffee and giant slices of cake / scones at the Boathouse Tea Room before a final stroll to Stackpole’s stony beach for fossil fossicking.
Sunday – the traditions continued: a stroll along Newgale beach, heading south along the cliff path this time, before driving back to Steffi’s for one of Maurice’s Marvellous Sunday lunches. Hazel and I succumbed to the post-prandial snooze for most of the drive back to Newport as a result. Another tradition – sorry Dave!